Hi all. Ia there a trick to removing the fuel tank cover? I've dropped the engine and removed the 3 screws visible on either side of the panel, but it doesn't want to budge. It flexes a bit but stays put. I don't want to pry it and risk damaging it, but at the same time there isn't much to grab on, to pull. Have I just missed some additional screws that are hidden somewhere? Cheers Paul
hehe...found them...but I can't see them going back in!! Next little challenge will be getting the straps off the tank...
Grip the strap l-brackets tightly with mole grips or similar and go easy with a long 13mm socket. The straps are easy to break off.
I think, in this case, wd-40 wil be my friend. The straps themselves seem in good condition, but that is more than I can say for the bolt threads...fingers X'd.
so...progress...engine is out, or at least on the floor in the engine bay. I now have access to the tank and have inspected all the breather pipe joins and replaced the 2 that were shot (the remainder and the tank itself look in excellent condition). Ironically, the 2 that needed to be replaced were in the engine bay!! Next task will be to remove the tank itself, so I can replace the exit pipe & filter, the sender and inspect the inside - yes.. I realise that a pristine outside can easily hide a gunky inside!. I also have the carb stripped, in anticipation of a rebuild kit arriving in the post. And, not surprisingly, I've discovered a bunch of other jobs that need to be sorted...CV joint gaiters, for example and the heater box controls and...the list goes on! P.
I've seen some gunk in Beetle tanks...I see no reason for Bus tanks to be different....but I would like them to be easier to get at!!
Well, I managed to get a bit more access to the tank yesterday - securing straps off. Still not got it out, as it is far too heavy!!! Its nearly full, despite the gauge reading nearly empty... However, I was able to reach round and feel there the filler pipe connects to the tank. It is ridiculously dusty (and therefore dry) in there which, if nothing else, tells me the tiller pipe isn't leaking! I'm still waiting for the new sender to arrive, at which point I'll empty the tank so I can actually pull it out, which will allow me to fit the sender, inspect the inside and also fit a new exit pipe & gauze filter. P.
My filler pipe was dry at the tank and and filler end, on removal the amount of internal cracking was crazy. Worth your while just changing them so you have a date of when you last changed and peace of mind.
Same here! The first time I could afford to fill the tank up petrol was dripping off the rear quarter. I was setting of for France and decided not to fill more than half way from then on, made for an interesting holiday Anyway the point is when I got to the tank it was completely dry, including the inch of outback dust on the bottom of the tank area. The van came from Australia Yes, change all the rubber pipes
