Fuel pump image

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by redgaz, Aug 27, 2019.

  1. A dribble to the pump doesn’t sound right.
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It should pour out in a steady stream, I've emptied enough tanks to know that!
     
  3. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    Im going to squirt some Holts spray grease into the pump through inspection plate tomorrow. While im at it I'll remove hose from pump and check flow again, if still appears restricted ill try sucking ;) if still slow I'll remove the fuel filter,. it's full, but can the fuel get out i wonder?.:thinking:
     
  4. Sounds like your new fuel tap is blocking the flow.
     
  5. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    No, i've only just fitted that and van ticked over for 10 mins, i'm not even sure i,ve now got a problem. I now wonder if the electric solenoid was causing a vac lock or is it an intermittent
    'something else' ?.
     
  6. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

     

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  7. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    Well , yesterday, bit the bullet and removed 'old' fuel pump , no where near as difficult as i'd anticipated .
    Today popped down to my old pal Mike's gaff , chopped 7mm off the end of the fuel pump rod, Faced it down to 100mm on his trusty lathe , then re- case hardened the end and polished it . It was actually harder to fit the new Pierburg pump than remove the old one. The new pump sits closer to to inlet manifold than the old dynamo pump was to the alternator !. Started up after a bit of cranking with pressure gauge fitted, 2.5 to 3.0 psi at any r.p.m. so 'job done' really, maybe road test tomorrow. :) IMG_20210318_163905.jpg
     
    Zed and snotty like this.
  8. :thumbsup:

    What’s that wrapped around the manifold under the carb? A heater?
     
  9. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    Yeah, so called I.M.D.U ... , i think, (Inlet manifold de-icing unit) , actually it gets pretty hot, only use it when icing up is a possibility, switch under dash with warning LED when on, wired to aux battery so it can be switched on prior to starting up. Hard to gauge if it makes a difference, i fitted it when i had a spat of icing up. Cool Air sell them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2021
  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If it gets hot .. its not doing much..it should be being cooled by the manifold in good thermal contact to warmish..
    I think I once estimated the heat input of the stock heating round the carb to nearer 1kW than 50 watts..
     
    redgaz likes this.
  11. I’d get rid of it, TBH ;). I don’t think it’s doing much.
     
  12. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    It does 'dry up' the condensation on the carb after about 15 mins. As it's hot to the finger tip i'd have thought it was even hotter on the other side of it?.
    Anyway, it's staying where it is for now. :)
     
    Zed and snotty like this.
  13. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    I'm sure a few on 'here', who use their vehicles in the winter have said they had fitted them with positive results ??., :thinking:
    But as Mike has said, not enough 'poke' .
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think in general anyone considering it is pointed towards fixing the cause of the icing which shouldn't be happening in the first place. I drive mine all the time and have had almost every common variation of carbs going - single/dual Solex, ICTs and Dells and have never experienced carb or manifold icing. Therefore I'm ignorant of the cause*, maybe you're not going fast enough. :D

    * Yeah, yeah, pressure change, but all carbs do that?
     
    redgaz likes this.
  15. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The difference with the stock air setup is the air feeds in at 30C at idle, being sucked from the No2 cylinder head fins. This is a big heater, and it means the temperature drop in the carb starts from a higher temperature.
    The IMDU is trying to heat up cold air and petrol that has not vapourised because it is cold to start with.
    Usually people just keep on feeding more petrol by tweaking the carbs until it stops lurching but its leaving soot on the bumper.
     
    redgaz likes this.
  16. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    Well, you never know what's going to happen next do ya!!.
    A neighbour knocked me up , "Van stinks of petrol" ! :(
    Turns out the oriental fuel tap i fitted had developed a steady drip forming 'ice' .
    Anyone know where i can get a decent quality manual tap?.
    How come it was icing up?. IMG_20210320_110254.jpg
     
  17. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    I've ordered one of these from Merlin Motorsport. IMG_20210320_130433.jpg
     
  18. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The petrol was evaporating and cooling down the tinware.

    Looking at it, you might not have tightened the fittings going into the valve properly.

    Anyway, I would definitely fit a metal bodied solenoid valve, not a manual valve, outside the engine bay and not in it, where it is obviously adding to fire risk through leaks.
    If the solenoid valve is metal, then even if the plastic round the coil is damaged by heat, the spring in the valve will shut off the fuel.

    Mine sits on the inside of the nearside chassis rail below the tank, with the metal-bodied fuel filter just before it inline.

    If the engine is on fire, the tap with a plastic lever may not be a good idea ..
     
  19. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    Hiya, when i removed the tap i could blow through it in the closed position, fuel was leaking out the top of the tap. Cheap chinese carp.
    I wondered why a decent quality valve would have a plastic tap?. It'll do for now, may install a fire extinguisher system. :thinking:
     
  20. Surely only the handle is plastic?
     

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