I don't believe it... Planning to go away this evening. Usual pre-trip checks, tyres, oil... ...the oil level's gone up. Probably about a centimetre above the max mark (was slap bang between the two marks last time I looked). I wouldn't say there's a strong smell of petrol in the oil, but I can't think of an alternative explanation... I'm guessing the advice would be not to take it on a run until I've (at least) changed the oil. Not going to have time to take the carb off (weber progressive). What a shame. Maybe I'll go in the golf and take a tent.
Put a hose clamp on the fuel pipe from the tank so no more makes its way through if your sorting it another day
Change the oil and take a hose clamp with you. You can clamp it off when you get there and fix on return.
I had this on my FI system. There is a vacuum activated diaphragm by-pass that feeds petrol back to the tank. When I imported the bus this wasn't connected so the fuel was finding it's way into the oil I presume through the bores.
Could be leaking through the mechanical fuel pump. Take the pump off and see if it is wet underneath around where the pushrod sits. I had that happen to me on a long run. When I arrived the oil level was way up the dipstick. Changed the pump and no more problems. Also, of course, changed the oil.
Its the needle valve on a progressive. Change the oil and put a clamp on the fuel pipe when the bus is not running. Then buy a new valve £9 ish from www.dellorto.co.uk and consider fitting a solenoid operated fuel cutoff to avoid the problem. This was the good advice from SGS Aircooled when I turned up with a progressive. It worked so well that the only thing I knew of the leaking needle valve was when it got so bad it would flood the engine at idle. Even then the shutoff valve protected the engine from fuel in the oil.
It's a good idea, but I've got the kids now (and not enough oil) so I think I'll probably just head out tomorrow with car and tent. It's only a one night stop. Nice idea re the solenoid cutoff - thinking about putting it on my to-do list as a safety mod anyway. Been thinking about going back to a Solex to be honest... the cutoff might be a good temporary botch to keep me on the road until that happens. Where to buy one?
Not used the bus for a week or so, normally after a long run the oil level drops slightly (rocker covers) so my gut feeling is it's more likely to be the carb. Does this make sense?
Kids dinner in the oven. Hose clamped. Caught a possible burglary in progress while doing it. Christ on a bike.
Is there a cheaper option than this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-tank...204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a50ebaa0c
I had same problem with fuel in oil. I posted here , see Newbie Fuel in Oil thread. I assumed at first it was the fuel pump, took it off and yes it was leaking fuel from the diaphragm down to pushrod and into sump oil. I later found that the carp EMPI 34 pict3 carb also was leaking fuel through float valve when van parked up. Bought carb refurb kit, but carp parts and float valve not much better . So decision needed. The end result is I now have a low pressure Facet electric pump and Petrol King regulator which I set to 2psi, new filter and manual fuel cutoff switch (all with 6mm fittings). All underneath van, not in engine bay. Plus all new fuel hose to R9 spec and not braided or cotton covered stuff. Sourced and bought refurbed Solex carb. So far so good. New oil was costing me a fortune at £20 a can.
Presumably your cutoff switch just kills the pump? Probably cheaper than the cutoff solenoid I linked to @volkswombat! OTOH I've heard the argument that an electric pump is less safe in an accident, as it might continue to feed fuel after the engine's stopped running. I'm sure there are ways around this.
Here we go: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-so...685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a7f1b595 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-so...445?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4ea753bd http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbureto...625?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33a3d26889 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-So...425?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3380c62551 or (quick and dirty) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-1-...LVE-Petcock-/321792721246?hash=item4aec57415e
Facet electric pump is wired via a tachometric relay. Look up the club8090 forum for pump wiring. Did this 2 years ago on my son's T25 and successful. So did same on my bay. I bought an electric fuel cut off solenoid switch for my bay but never fitted it. It has a fine fuel filter in its body which is easily clogged up and would make it unreliable. So chose the manual switch. Also when I tested it off the van, the switch reduced the fuel flow. The solenoid switch cost £75. Manual switch £5.
Personally I'd go for solenoid as it'll cut the fuel as soon as you switch off the ignition. Good line of defence should the worst happen. If a fuel line pops and you're relying on a manual switch the tank will have emptied into the engine bay before you can get to switch it off.
My setup has a metal fuel filter connected to the tank outlet and then to a solenoid valve to keep crud out of the valve which used to jam shut if dirt got in it. I bought my valve from somebody who sold them for a truck or commercial van application and so it was more like £20. He has gone out of business or moved since , I think he was glad to clear some stock. It lacked scene tax.
Maybe one of the cheap eBay ones (£15ish) after a filter then. Presumably the carb will still leak until it's emptied the float bowl.
