Maybe One for @mikedjames @Zed @snotty, I turn the ignition on fuel gauge goes to half so working, switch off switch back on fuel gauge not moving, on works off not working, what do you think, fuel gauge end or tank end, I’ve cut a inspection hole to get to the sender so how do I test it, help before I take a hammer to it
Loose wire or Voltage stabilizer on its last legs , or the sender is bad. Because you can easily get at the sender .. start there.. Basically there should be a pulsing voltage on the sender positive terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage then fault is at the dashboard end. If the voltage is pulsing and no reading, disconnect the wire at the sender and measure its resistance.. should be a few tens of ohms. When senders fail they often start by working at full tank but disconnect part way down the tank when the resistance wire wiper attached to the float moves onto a broken bit.. at the boundary of failing sometimes they work sometimes they dont.. my last one failed like that. If theres no voltage at the tank end when its failed then go to the dashboard and check that the sender wire has resistance to chassis (reconnect the wires at the sender ..) when you pull it off the gauge. If it has then the sender wire is good Then you need to check to see if there is a resistance between the gauge terminals when the sender wire is disconnected. Open circuit - replacement gauge. If you can get a voltage measurement on the voltage stabiliser/regulator on the back of the instrument cluster, should be 12 volts on the positive end, and an average about 5 volts or so on the end connected to the gauge. If no 12 volts it's a loose wire, if it's no 5 volts it's the stabilizer.
