Fitting type1 1600 tinware

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Kerrin Wells, Jan 1, 2020.

  1. Hello.

    Quick question. I have never had tinware on my bus, but have managed to gather a set together and also fix the rear valence bodywork to make everything fit.

    Can I fit the tinware without dropping the engine down or out? Bearing in mind I have twin ICTs, and once it is in what is the best method for fitting the foam seal.
    I am assuming that the throttle cable tube needs removing, and as my fuel pipe is just in mid air, I am not sure which hole it should be fed through. There is a hole right by number 3 cylinder spark plug, but it seems pretty close to the head, I have another rust flywheel tin, that has a bigger hole further over.

    Any help gratefully received.
     
  2. Day

    Day

    The foam seal will fit when engine is in place in bus and all tinware has been fitted.
    It just pushes on easily.....Shiney side down!
     
  3. Great, thank you. The photo above is the tinware mocked up on my spare engine in the garage, there is another engine in my bus without any tinware on it, if anyone was confused.

    I need to weld a rusty section up on the side of the rear tin, then paint and hopefully fit them. I do have a screwed down removable engine hatch cover in the rear of the bus, so I may have a fighting chance of getting the rear tin in from above.
     
  4. bluerustybucket

    bluerustybucket Supporter

    probably best to drop the engine to fit the tins
     
  5. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    All tinware except rear apron goes on the engine.
    Then put engine in bus.
    Then fit rear tinware. The engine wont go onto the gearbox unless the engine is lifted up so the clutch is clear of the gearbox input shaft. So engine goes up then forwards.

    You dont need the top hatch to fit the rear tin it goes in the rear hatch OK.

    Foam seal - I start by feeding it into the slot from the left hand side just under the fuel tank firewall. By pushing it from the left it eventually appears to the right of the fan housing. Then I push and pull it so the end is well away from the fan. If the fan eats the foam you will know it and its engine out time to clear the chunks causing vibration and damage to alternator bearings and carburettor needle valves...
    Then push foam down round remainder of engine tinware checking underneath it is in evenly.
    Seal goes shiny side down.
     
  6. Not sure what bit you want to fit. If it's just the large rear piece, you can fit it with the engine in. It just slots in. The foam goes between the outer edge of the tinware and the shaped pieces on the bodywork.

    Anything else (cylinder tins etc) needs the engine out to fit.
     
  7. Cylinder tins are in place, I just need to fit the bellhousing tin under the fuel tank cover, and the large apron tin over the exhaust.
     
  8. You’ll need to take the engine out to fit the bellhousing tin and everything that goes with it (oil cooler “exhaust” etc). Can’t think how you’d do it engine in.
     
  9. Great help. It’s easier to plan ahead now. It may be easier to take the bus to my folks house, as they have a much bigger garage, if I try doing it in my single garage, I may get wedged under it and need rescuing by the kids again.
     
    nobayinhell and snotty like this.
  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I would look at pictures and videos

    Basically this picture has more bits than you need but ignore the bottom row 7,8, 14,15.
    43 is never present and part 38 and the other side is rare and obvously theres left and right cylinder tins ( 1 on top , 5 underneath on the studs )

    11 exists as a left and right part deflecting air to the rear of cyl #2 and cyl #4. They are fitted by one screw to the upper head tins then a second screw through the rear tin 30.
    30 shown there is a non Late Bay rear apron- the Late Bay one has a wider rear bit on it with the edge lifted up on the left and dropped at the back to match the T4 tinware profile.

    Engine will not go in with 30 fitted.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Worth dropping the engine. Hard to see how you could do it with engine in, even with an engine hatch.

    If you're in a tinware mood, worth getting a "Hoover bit" (have a google) that fits around the bottom of the oil cooler. They're invariably missing.
     
  12. I’ll check if I have one on the scrap or spare engine. Cheers
     
  13. You might be lucky. Part 18 in pic.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    You may want to to fit a stove pipe and rear lower air deflector plates too. air delectors.jpg Exhaust flow.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  15. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    What about choke flap assembly and thermostat and bracket etc while the engine is out. (can these be fitted with twin carbs ?) flaps1.jpg flaps fitted.jpg stat flap.jpg
     
  16. The flap system is all in place on the engine in the bus. It is however missing off my spare engine, which was a low mileage exchange engine. So if it ever has to go in, I will swap it all over properly.
     
  17. redgaz likes this.

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