Ah I wasn't being insolent, just can't face the thought of it leaking like a sieve and having to get pulled and sent back. Got too much stuff on at the mo , that might be the !last straw!
Before I have another go..... Ive read conflicting information. First that it's to be tuned up valves, timing, carb, in that order. But also, before I time it I need to get the idle speed correct. So which approach is correct? Also, regards setting the throttle stop screw. The setting is precise according to the instructions ( turn screw x amount, then back it off an eighth of s turn, or the like, you get my drift) But if I set it , then give the throttle cam plate a ping to simulate revving it up, it always comes to rest in a slightly different position, meaning the setting of the screw is now wrong. How do I sort that ?
Anyone help with the above? Tried to start/run earlier but no joy really. It started and ran for nearly a minute, but I had to keep revving it, then it cutout and wouldn't start again. Battery started getting low so that's on charge. Checked the cutoff solenoid in carb works, checked fuel is getting through. Any ideas?
1. The return spring is not tight enough. Possible. 2. The carburettor throttle plate is not perfectly in the middle of the hole in the carburettor - you may have to undo the screws on the shaft that hold the plate on, let the throttle close properly and let the plate move around, then tighten the screws, so it seals. 3. The spindle on the carburettor has worn big holes in the bushes and is letting the throttle plate wobble around and letting in air. If this is true, your carburettor needs new bushes or you will never get it right. 4. Its a new carburettor and the monkeys that made it have faithfully reproduced a worn out carburettor by making it badly. The running like a dog and white smoking might be too rich a mixture, it floods, the carburettor cools down, and stops working properly, the engine burbles to a stop, and then your battery gives up. To set the timing, all you need to do is be sure you are well under 1000rpm, hose off and blocked and then the distributor will be at zero mechanical advance. Set to about 7.5 degrees, and then get the engine running , then iterate the carburettor screw adjustments. Dont imagine you can do it all in a fixed order, you might find that the engine RPM goes too high , the mechanical advance cuts in and your timing and setting the mixture and volume screws up properly will be impossible until you play with the screws and slow it down again.
It's a new riverhaus carb so I'm confident it's ok. Don't know what to do about the throttle stop screw then., Maybe the pedal and cable aren't smooth enough but they seem ok.
Ok - best to tackle one thing at a time . Is the throttle returning properly yet ?? Stronger spring ?? Engine off !! Set the throttle cable too slack - undo the pinch bolt and nip it up on the last couple of mm on the cable . In this position the cable won`t affect the choke / carb if it`s set too tight . Back off the throttle stop screw . Manually click the quadrant around to click the choke off so the quadrant is in the running position and turn the stop screw in until it NEARLY touches the lowest cam on the quadrant . Start the engine Assuming you`ve set the volume and idle screws to about 1 and a half turn out it should run something like . Once it`s warmed up and the choke is off set the throttle stop screw , retension the throttle cable have a fiddle with the idle and volume screws and you should be able to drive it . Think about what you`re trying to overcome ... Keep it simple
Check you haven't accidentally swapped plug leads over whilst you've been taking them off and on when cleaning the spark plugs - easily done.
The throttle does return fine "overall" and the spring seems perfectly adequate (it's brand new,) I'm just talking about the final resting position of it after a rev up. It can very vary by a mm or so after each rev up. So if I've set the screw to the exact position, then after a rev it's a mm out, so I reset it, rev it, then it's out in the other direcyion. And so on. I'll try what you said tomorrow cheers
It needs to be on the bottom stop on the quadrant. If the choke's still on, the quadrant will try and move round.
Sounds like the throttle is sticking somewhere if the return is varying . Could be the pedal , mechanism or cable so best `quick fix` would be a second or slightly stronger spring for the time being . If the throttle isn`t returning to EXACTLY the same position you haven`t got a chance of setting the basics . A new spring will close the throttle fine if the whole throttle system is free enough to let it , any stiffness in the mechanism or cable will cause it to vary the closing which is your main issue i think ... As an aside i`ve fitted an extra spring on the mechanism under the belly pan to help the pedal back up when the throttle closes . I`m not saying you should go to those lengths , just try another spring or even a elastic hair band - anything temporary just to get the throttle returning properly !
As its a new carburettor, I would suspect the throttle plate might need adjusting, or helping with the stronger spring. I deleted a comment about monkeys making 34PICT-3 reproduction carburettors these days , and maybe what the carburettor needs is simply to be pinged a lot of times so that any small bits of stray metal on the edges of the throttle plate wear off , and slight roughness in the barrel smooths out.
Sorry if you've already done this but get a length of wire with a spade connector on one end, connect the spade in place of the wire with the spade on the back of the starter motor, then you can sit at the back of the bus and touch the wire to the battery + with the ign in the on position to turn it over and see what's going on, operate the throttle with your hand etc!
