Hi everyone. New to this owning a T2 thing! Had the van a couple of months and realised that the outer scraper is not touching the windows on the doors. This is causing water to run down inside the door and out next to the seats and down into the footwells. I have spotted that there are no inner scraper on either door, so have bought a couple and plan to pop them on this weekend. I am hoping this will provide a buffer and the window will be in contact with the outer scraper. I have found a step by step guide on JustKampers (https://www.justkampers.com/jkblog/replace-cab-door-window-scrapers-on-a-vw-camper-37/?id=37) but was wondering if anyone had any other tips/hints for us. This is our first projest on the van, and we have zero experience of this, so a tad nervous!! Not got any pics at the moment! Thanks in advance!
I found it difficult to replace the scraper on its own, got a complete surround with scraper fixed to it to install on the "to do" list... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
So I am hoping the scraper on the outside is okay, and the issue is that the missing inner scraper is allowing the window to not be pushed against the outer one - when giving the window a little bit of pressue with my finger from the inside, the glass moves flush with the scraper. If not, I will be purchasing a new surround/outerscraper combo. Found a pic of my doors. Hope the door release and winder are easy to remove?
The scrapers (especially the outer one) don't work particularly well, and water will get in. Bay doors leak like sieve. It's how they are. You'll have to strip most of the door to fit new scrapers. You'll need a plastic membrane behind the door panel to prevent water seeping in. You also need the door vents, if they've been removed. They help dry the door interior out.
Ditto the above. The door membranes are needed. Without them water that gets past dribbles onto your door card. Just get some plastic sheeting from homebase and cut it to size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Even better, if you tuck the bottom of the membrane into the bottom of the door, instead of taping it to the door frame, it directs the water that is running down back into the door. From where it drains through the holes at the front. To make it even better try to park with the bus level or nose down. Then the doors empty out . And at something like £600 for a good door you probably want to make that a rule..
It’s not completely clear from the picture but there’s a flap glued half way down which is tucked into the door to do that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can fit inner scrapers without stripping the door down, but outers require you to remove pretty much everything in the door. To do the inner... Remove your door card, wind the window down to the bottom. Undo the 2 m6 bolts that hold the lift channel to the mechanism, and let the glass sit in the bottom of the door. Loosen the bottom 1/4 light frame bolt a bit. Remove old inner scraper. Fiddle the new scraper into place, tighten up the 1/4 light bolt. Put it all back together, and put a plastic sheet in as mentioned above.
Thanks everyone! Some great hints and tips here!! Dubs, are you saying that we do not need to take the quarter light out completely? Just loosening at the bottom will give enough wiggle room?
Yep. Just loosening it will allow the bit of rubber that's trapped between the frame and the door to come out. You may need to do some careful prising though..
Mine were missing when I bought mine 9 years ago and as a temp fix, glued in some windscreen wiper blades with fish tank silicon. Worked ok and is still working! Yes I know its bodge but it was just a 'temp'.
I found a very cheap donor door. It had some good rubber on it. The replicas rubber were not so great quality. First batch I bought years ago wasn’t very good. Then I bought another set of rubber and they were OK.. but nothing like the originals. Even though they were old ones they were still better than these new ones. See if you can find original one. It’s worth the extra money even if they’re old and in good nik
The window winder handles... heat them up a bit before removing g otherwise they break......ask me how I know
A good tip is to use a large flat bladed screwdriver gently to prise in the wire clip . Not the easiest of jobs to cut your teeth on but you`ll do two , get the hang of it and want to do more because it`s easy once you get the technique
Funnily enough it was the first job I tackled too. Oh how I laughed at my skinned knuckles and bleeding nail cuticles, trying to get that long wire clip in place, and swearing that as soon as I got the door back together the sodding thing could blinkin’ well go back to Cornwall!
Hi all, Finally got round to doing this hob and struggling to get the clips in, any advice on how they pop in?
It's tricky to explain, but I use a pair of thin nose pliers to grip the straight bit of the spring just before the sticky outy bit, then poke the first sticky outy bit in the end hole till it springs into place. Move along to the next one and repeat... It's seems really awkward at first, but once you get set up right, they all just fall into place. The second one will be a doddle!
As above but I used long nosed pliers to locate the clip then a very broad flat screwdriver to push on the rubber and prise the clip in ... Bit of a faff but you'll get there Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
