Exhaust for '73 Westy with 1Y conversion

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by StuartC, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. [​IMG]

    This is the exhaust on our van. Initially thought i really liked it. Not too sure now. Looks to be far too low. What do you guys think?
     
  2. Honky

    Honky Administrator

    What's making you think about it - do you have any problems?
     
  3. Yeah. It looks far too low. Not sure I like the way its right under the cv gaiters either. Doesnt look sexy (dont know why i thought it would).

    Went to see it over the weekend. It is going to be low but may be something ill live with until its knocked into a bunch of speedbumps and im forced to address it.

    On the Plus side the Radiator and Engine Mounts look awesome. Having the exhaust so long should mean that its quiet (er) at least.

    Posted to see if there was any advise from the forum about possible alternatives for exhaust position / design / best practise?
     
  4. You bought the rad from Fellows Speedshop didn't you? Why not have a word with them about the exhaust. Maybe they could make one for you or recommend a better set up which you could sort yourself.
     
  5. And while you guys have your thinking caps on. Any bright ideas about filling / topping up oil and water without cutting an access panel under the bed?
     
  6. @ BayDreams thats a great idea. Ill do just that and see what they say. The Radiator is awesome by the way. Odd that they have positioned the front pipe to require notching the chassis rail. The way mines been mounted looks really good. Ill post pics when its all finished.
     
  7. With the access panel - if it were me I'd take the plunge and have a hole cut. Think about all the times you're going to need to get to the top and around that area in the future. Loads! It'll save a lot of headaches if you just cut the panel now.
     
  8. Being optimistic i was hoping that id never have to look at it again (apart from changing the oil). I think its possible to fill it via the dipstick hole. would be slow but possible.
     
  9. It's a daft idea. ;) It'll take hours. It takes long enough just to top it up that way. It reminds me of something. My brother's getting married in a couple of months time. I know one of the stories the Best Man intends to tell is the time my brother was caught trying to top up the oil in his car through the dipstick hole (he didn't realise what the lid on the rocker cover was for - thought that was were the water went). He called his mate, the Best Man, 4 hours later saying 'is it supposed to take this long?'.

    With your dilemma, I would have thought it's easier to buy the whole rear panel, a used one with the removable hatch already there. Chop out the old one and weld in the new.
     
  10. Yeah I know your right. Just didnt want to do any more cutting. Dont think Id go the whole hog and fit the access panel from a later van anyway but would favor some sort of small access flap. But having said that the oil cap is right below the strengthening rib in the engine bay. Might come down to engine reliability. If im forever working on it then full hatch it is. If it runs like a charm then id never have to look at it.
     
  11. you will need a access hole in the rear with a water cooled motor fitted, you WILL need to be able to get to the top of the engine to do service work & check levels etc due to the hight of the engine especially with yours mounted at 15 degrees . on my last 1z tdi bay i cut out the boot floor made a frame then rewelded the floor to it so it looked stock when shut. p.s you might be struggling to keep that engine cool with that rad at motorway speed but only time will tell
     
  12. here's the engine hatch hole cutout with motor mocked up
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    heres the engine in the hole painted
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  13. That looks really neat. Im thinking again about making some cuts. I know it makes sense really. 13 Window any comments / advise about the exhaust?
     
  14. the exhaust looks a bit long and low to me! you will need at least 1x composition style box to keep the noise down as non turbo diesels are noisy i would be looking at a a 90 degree elbow facing forward into a 180 elbow with a box running level with the block making it look like a aircooled turbo tuck away style

    have the ends of the chassis legs been strenghtened? only asking as there is a lot of force bending the mounts down a craddle leg to leg would have been much stronger in my opnion
     
  15. Thats pretty much the original length of the Golf exhaust. I think that its going to be something I look at next Autumn (if it hasnt been knocked off first).

    The legs have been massively reinforced and the mounts look a lot more elegant than the leg to leg cradles ive seen.

    Going to look into the hatch (pun intended) option.
     
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  20. poorly designed/ineffective ducting causing a lack of air flow through the core, underbody turbulance, insufficient radiator core etc. you need a larger core due to where the radiator is making it less efficient fitted underneath than being mounted on the front of the car like in the golf. plus diesels need a bigger rad anyway look at a golf diesel radiator and look at a golf petrol radiator of a similar sized engine, the diesel will be at least a 1/3 wider and 50% thicker core vw dont fit bigger (read more expensive) radiators for a laugh they do need it! especially when your going to be pushing a undergeared brick through the air at 70mph!!!
     

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