Engine will not start after rebuild - suspect electrickery.

Before you do anything, unplug the double relay and have a really close look at the spade terminals in the nylon blocks. They're only held in with a small tab (which can break off), so one of the terminals might be too low and not making contact.
Have a good look for any corrosion too. If there's a corroded terminal you ought to be able to release it and clean it up.

I think someone mentioned this previously, and it would tie in with having to wiggle the loom it get it working before.

Good luck!

 

Mine is the original metal one, VW changed over to plastic so all this means is yours has been fixed at some point and a new top section put in. But plastic / metal doesn't matter it will still work...or not...

The top thing as well, doesn't matter which way it sits, as long as they are all connected, you could turn the whole thing 45 / 90 / 180 degrees if you really wanted. It just works this way best as any water will roll off rather than seep into the connectors.

You will need to have an earth somewhere otherwise it won't work, mine has always come out of the power side and back up to the top screw, I thought it was a pretty neat way of doing it...

 

you'll find the one to the fan is actually the feed "To" the coil as this was the one i forgot to reconnect 1st try, the other i think is oil pressure but not certain

 

i will deffo undo this and check - i wish i could be arsed to go over tonight but there's no point really.

 

can't belive you have jubilee clips on your injector rail mark tut tut

 

My coil is more or less the same as Morks. Sorry to rub it in but having my van 5 meters away at work is very handy!

Sheathed wire goes to fan, (BTW, does anyone have their fan on? I took the fuse out of mine ages ago)
Green to dizzy - edit - condenser
Cream to ECU

 

the green is your condenser no i have no fan i'm 100% the coil feed is ok i was just wanting to know if that black wire on marks went to the pressure switch as i removed mine but want to fix it correctly now i know the van better.

 

i'm going with @MarcT512 it's gonna be that relay connection (i hope)

 

ere mark! where's your flaps?

 

gonna nip up to ed's in a bit and take off the relay quick and check the connections and maybe bring it home to clean up a bit

 

If you've got the VW mechanic manual now, get a multimeter and try checking the voltage in the DR before you remove it, if everything is fine then it stops you wasting your time cleaning it or it will tell you the slot with the poor connection and you can focus on it. No point cleaning all the slots only to find you end up making others worse and then nothing works...

Follow the 'no voltage at fuel pump' line on page 3, if it takes you to page 7 then leave it for the day, if it goes to page 9, follow the guide further to the end.

That might throw some light on the problem. Should only take 5 minutes to do, it's just jabbing the connectors in the slots...

 

sounds stupid what do i do to check the voltage - in idiots terms

 

Set the multimeter to V, (depending on which one you have you may have a 20V setting.) The multimeter essentially tells you what voltage is at that point of the circuit.

Earth the multimeter by putting the black connector onto a metal part of the bus body
Put the red connector into the DR slot as per the instructions, making sure you touch the metal part of the connector.
Look at multimeter, do you get a volt reading or is it zero?
Make a note of the readings and post them here.

You can test the multimeter is working by touching the red connector to the positive and black connector to the neg on the battery, you should get a reading of around 12V, (assuming your battery is healthy). This will give you a basic check to see / learn if you are doing it right.

You can also do this to each side of a fuse to check they are working and not blown.

 

Have you tried fitting a scooby engine

 

i know that i mean pull plug ign on probe in connector block see whats live?