Engine lid seal ....

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Brinky, Jul 31, 2019.

  1. so I’ve started putting bits back on the bus ....
    Fitted an Alan schofield best quality engine lid seal... there’s no way it’s gonna shut , will it soften ?
    Bought their bungs for the holes seen in the picture on the rear corner .. they don’t fit either..
    Is this what I’ve got to look forward to ? EF12DA34-2C2F-4DF4-A171-98E9DF95798D.jpeg
     
  2. Is the seal the right way round, ie not inside out? Is the slot in the moulding hooked under the lip in the body panels?
     
  3. It’s hooked under the lip all the way round, with the rounded rubber facing out
     
  4. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Get your lock on the door and give it a damn good slam. That looks like it would go.

    Buy a mixed box of bungs off eBay and fit the closest size for the hole you’ve got.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. Sounds ok. Is there any rust in the panels behind it that’s stopping it sitting flat? They can be tricky to put in unless everything’s just right.
     
  6. No rust, sitting nice and flat
     
  7. I agree that will shut .. they do that until they find their place :thumbsup:
     
    Lasty likes this.
  8. Ok I’ll try that tomorrow, thanks
     
  9. They can be tight when first fitted , mine (Schofields) is about right now after a few months of use .
    Similar issues with the door seals but getting there - better too tight than a bit baggy ...

    :hattip:
     
    Pedro del monkeybike and snotty like this.
  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Mine uses a Schofields rubber seal, but owing to the large number of people over the years who have turned the panels of the rear of my bus into some kind of abstract art, I have to slam it so hard the lid hits the body and the paint on the engine lid cracks as it flexes. It stops about 10 cm from closed on the seal. Yours is much closer to being right.

    If I used a hard cheap seal that would only shut after I cut down the thickness of the seal all round with a sharp knife.
     
  11. Don’t forget there is a little bit of adjustment if you have the original hinges
    Within the little captive platey things
    If you know what I mean o_O
     
    snotty likes this.
  12. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    There is also adjustment on the bottom catch. With that and the hinge adjustment, you should be able to get it spot on.
     
  13. My new one is exactly like that. But don't worry, it Shuts tight with a gentle slam, which makes a very nice reassueing seal. Am sure yours will be the same.

    1979 Super Viking, 2lt type 4, Automatic
     
  14. Mines rather tight too; I don't remember where I got the seal from, but as others have said, it's a good tight fit
     
  15. Don’t worry it will get slammed a lot when you can’t get it started :D
     
    Lasty likes this.
  16. redgaz

    redgaz Supporter

    My lid seal is a lot harder than the door seals and makes the lid bottom edge stick out. Are the Schofield ones a soft grey compound or black rubber?.
     
  17. Betty the Bay

    Betty the Bay Supporter

    My grey seal has started to split, may have to source a new one at Tatton.
    So grey, soft good....black, hard bad ?
     
  18. The engine lid seal is black, all the other door seals I’ve bought are grey, no idea why
     
  19. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    It helps with the engine cooling, the black seals absorb more heat than the grey ones ;)
     
    77 Westy, Valveandy and snotty like this.

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