Engine earth strap - does it need replacing?

Chasing a problem with my t25 2.a dj having intermittent problems starting after a run. I doing the obvious check of all earth straps etc. Quick question. I took a photo of earth strap in engine as it does look a little discoloured. I wonder at what point should you renew? Also when it comes to the bolt that attaches to the side, the other side isn't accessible so I'm assuming there isn't a bolt on the other side waiting to fall off if I undo?

Thannks

 

Looks ok to me.

 

It looks better than a new one would be to me but you’re not showing the important bits on the ends.

 

Good question really ...i suppose if it's badly green you could get problems , it's not deteriorating it's still got a good tight weave ...doesn't boiling water clean up verdigris ?

 

I think a good wire brush where it connects at either end should sort it

 

Ignition switch is a common fail problem. If all your earths, battery terminals etc are sound I would take a look at it.

 

Dunk it into a jar of white vinegar will clean it up.

 

Or Coke, it's the real thing, don't cha know?

 

I just put in a second earth strap a few years ago, just to be sure.

 

The electricity goes along the inside of the wire, so green on the outside is painless. Except where it has to make a connection by being pressed against another piece of metal.
I would clean the ends and the panel they bolt to with sandpaper.
I wouldnt use acids/chemicals on it- the residues that get trapped in the weave may actually corrode the wire away..

But in reality, an old ignition switch probably has most of its contacts burnt away through use.
Also that if it cranks but does not start thats either the 'run' contacr on the switch or just the normal too rich/flooding that needs a foot hard on the pedal for a few seconds of cranking to clear. And no repeated stamping.

 

I bought a repro new strap from JK and found it was too short, so bought a longer modern one and fitted that after cleaning up the metal where contact to gearbox and chassis is. Helped a lot. Adding a extra strap from battery ground to engine would also help. Check voltage at battery post and engine earth is the same, if reading is less at engine, its the strap not earthing very well.

 

I cleaned up the ends and fitted a strap to the starter motor too. I will see if that makes a difference. If the battery was on its way out would that cause an issue when warm? I have also noticed it has a slight hesitation when it first tuns over.... almost like it has to think about it

Thanks for all suggestions thus far.

 

I should probably look at ignition. How tricky is it to change this?

 

How did you attach a strap to the starter motor?

 

the bolt that attaches the starter motor

 

Wear in the oilite bush in the bell housing can present similar symptoms.
Another, if not the, nightmare job on the syncro is popping off the starter motor to either change it or replace the bush. it's not hard, just you can't really short cut it.
Starter motor on normal t25...20 minutes.
Syncro 2 to 3 hours. Not helping am I Matt...only to say bear it in mind. Ask me how I know...
Edit. The bush supports the starter motor and when it's worn it can make starter engagement difficult.
I decided to replace the standard starter on Goran with a self supporting one. Smaller and easier to get out in the future and no bush to wear. £££ though as is everything on these things

 

Haha... Don't worry I've already replaced it and I'm fully aware of how tricky it is. It's a new one (last year) so I'm hoping that it's not faulty.

 

Phew. Couldn't remember what you've done so far

 

The JK one I got was bigger than the one that came out. I regret buying it from there now but was in a rush, it barely squeezed in and was a bitch to get in. Where did you get yours from?

 

I am like that most mornings