Hi, I have a 1600 T2 engine from a 73 Bay Double Cab. Not sure of its history, but has done 56k miles. When I start the engine is runs briefly for about 30 seconds, then cuts out. While it is running it revs fairly high. I had a Solex 34 pict 3 carb but the cut off valve is stuck inside unable to come out - threads rung. I've replaced with a new version from China (£50 / $63). Not sure this was wise! Distributor is vacuum advanced. New Fuel Pump. Ive set everything as you would, valves, points, Fast Idle Adjust, Volume Control Screw, Air Bypass Screw, (can't set timing until I at least get it idling). Did a compression test, 2,3,4 at 90 psi, 1 at 55 psi. have done a few running cycles but not checked compression since to see if heat has helped number 1. I can keep the engine running, by pulling on the accelerator, but it gets hot very quickly, and white smoke flows from the Fuel Filler Breather. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Would welcome any advice. Thanks.
You mean the piston for the cutoff valve is stuck inside the carb? Does it retract when you stick 12V on it? If it doesn't, the engine won't run - it's doing its job!
High revs and then cutting out....and can stay running by giving throttle....and gets hot. Sounds lean ? Where exactly is the smoke coming from ? With the compression figures being low, that might be unrelated, and perhaps could be blow by? Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
You can set timing without idle. With points you can static time .. in any case you can set the timing at 28 degrees running fast, with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and blocked off. White smoke from breathers may be related to low compression from failed piston rings on No1..causing a lot of oily smoke/ gas to go through the breather. I am imagining an engine that has been thoroughly overheated and is now barely able to run, missing the power from no1, the stopping at idle could be almost siezed bearings, causing a lot of heat to be generated ... Somewhere in the Samba it was estimated that a T1 engine in a bus lasts about 50k miles before needing overhaul...
Set the timing static. All the carb adjustments are guess? Start point? 55psi might be a broken ring resulting in... Your engine needs rebuilding and you've guess set a £50 Chinese carb and the timing. To get it running you'll need the timing set as above then go nuts with the volume and air bypass screws while keeping it running like you hav. Eventually you'll find a setting that doesn't die and go from there to set them properly. But your engine is still knackered.
Ok, that makes sense. I couldn't work out why it would come from the "Fuel Filler Breather" This does seem to confirm your rings are worn, as that smoke is excessive blow by unfortunately. Might still be possible to get it running by setting static timing as people have stated above, and then sort the fuel mixture. And you never know, that might kick the rings into life and bring it around. However, unfortunately, as it stands, your compression measurements and the excessive blowby do currently suggest a tired engine. Jim Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
Good point, but its possible to go from very good to toast in the distance from Portishead to Newbury, speaking from experience. E.g. Smoke coming out of breather, smoke coming out of the exhaust...no compression on number 4..
E.g this was still running, in fact I drove it about 400m as the bus is lowered (so couldnt be towed over speed bumps) after the tow home. This was following running with about 4 degrees extra advance (duff timing light) and a progressive carburettor that had a sticking "power valve" causing sometimes lean running at full power, racing trucks up a hill because it "was going quite well"... The engine was rather reluctant back home and needed a lot of revs. In this case it was the hole.in the piston behind the rings and the piston smeared in the cylinder.. The furry appearance of the piston is the aluminium dust from detonation. I could also see little blobs of aluminium on the spark plug in the offending cylinder. As I have a full flow oil filter and there was only a tiny volume of aluminium dust missing, all I did was change over the pistons and cylinders for a new set and one cylinder head. (And change oil and filter looking for metal in the oil .. none visible) The head was cracked from a previous over heat caused by a garage messing up putting the engine bay seal back in place, a large chunk fell in the fan as they put the join in front of the fan. Months later there is no change in hot idle oil pressure, still 16psi.
Hi, And thanks for all the suggestions and advice above. I've managed to sort the problem, and engine is now sounding pretty good. At the weekend I ran the engine for 5 mins and shut it off. was still cutting out without revving it. Inspecting the engine I noticed the 3/4 side was hot while the 1/2 side was cold to the touch, making me think the 1/2 side was not firing. I checked for spark which was good, and wires connected correctly. I ran it again and sprayed card cleaner at the inlet boots and connection at heads. Realised there was an air leak at the boot going to 1/2 side, tightened the jubilee clips (which I thought Id done), and ran it again. but still a leek. Jubilee clip had come loose again, and turns out it was broken. Replaced it, tightened it down and ran the engine. Immediately the engine ran at idle! And all 4 cylinders were firing. Fingers crossed it will be OK. Thanks again for your help.
Only 50,000 miles in 50 years? Seems to me these buses would have covered that in their first 5-10 years.
Its good you found the problem. My bus had 48155 on the clock in 2010 and looking at MOT history it had been doing less than about 400 miles a year for the previous 5 years, and the receipts I got with it showed little action since around 2005. It now has 55300 on the clock, but I did go through 00000.0 to get there since 2010. So my bus has done at least once round the clock in my ownership..maybe several more times before based on the way the accelerator pedal metal was worn when I bought it.. BTW There are proper clamps available for those boots.. e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13308610...QOYZ9GYR8i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY, these dont pinch like Jubilee clips can..
