following on from the 'flaps thread' i'm on the look out for a set of cooling flaps for a type 1 engine and will sort some other things at the same time, the ? is how far off the ground does the back of the van need to be so the engine will slide out backwards. i'm a bit limited for height in the garage and don't want to do it out on the drive. what jobs would you do while the engines out so its not in and out all the time because i have not done something that i should of. list of jobs:-..........................................
Did mine recently, not sure exactly how high it was but probably up on the top notch of the axle stands. As you pull the engine out, tilt it back to give more clearance. If you cant get the height, remove the carb beforehand which will enable you to tilt it more/get more clearance. Do Fuel filler and breather pipes.
have they made a fuel filler pipe yet that wont rot with the fuel we use now. last time engine came out was with bike lift for engine and a 4 post lift just lifted van straight up but can't do it that way this time...
Fuel filler pipes I just got standard issue stuff from coolair. Only time will tell if they any good! Engine removal not too bad, I did it as a first timer on my own with basic kit. Oh and some help on here...
The fuel hose to get is R9 - it will withstand the high ethanol content in today's fuels without rotting and splitting. When I did my fuel lines, I got some from these guys: http://www.volksbolts.com/ I'm very suspicious of getting just "the standard stuff" from any of the main VW parts suppliers, because they don't have a particularly good track record in this department. Most of them were quite happy to sell the overbraided fuel hose which lasted 5 minutes, despite everyone knowing this stuff was crap.
Do you know what they make the big rubber pipes and filler neck out of? I think this could be an area of concern, particularly if, like me, you brim the tank for those few extra travel miles It leaves the lower part of pipe submerged for quite a while. It's no good using R9 everywhere else only to have that rot through allowing fuel to leak out.
agree on the r9 fuel hose, but i was meaning the filler neck/elbows. as far as i know theres only standard rubber stuff
already done r9 fuel hoses and tank breather but not filler tube so will think on that one. while engines out will be checking things like oil cooler seals and things like that, so any other things people can throw in for checking....
With standard tyres fitted it takes around a further 280-300mm of lift to slide the engine clear....according to the notes when I last did it
A very good source for your fuel hose is a local hydraulics service and repair place. No scene tax see... I know people have to make a living but those volksbits prices are obscene. £37.50 for hose and clips? I pay less than £6 for the same. Even allowing for their time to make the bundle you shod be paying around £12 max. When you have your engine out its worth looking at everything you can access, CV boots, light fittings and wiring, filler hoses (essential!!) and a clean up of everything
I would consider changing the fuel gauge sender as there prone to packing up. Saves cutting a hole later on to change it. Also check the tank as they can rot. As well as under the straps these are places I've noticed in mine when I stripped it.
I would change the main crankshaft and fly wheel oil seal (this saves on big oil leaks I know.) check condition of clutch, pistons/rings. clean engine and just everything. Two good ramps and drop it on an engine trolley, make one if don't have one so can move around and keep bus in garage. Good luck with this project. Any help on the way just post up and am sur tlb community will help
I'd check it rather than change it automatically. The new ones aren't that good and seem to fail much quicker than the originals and it's easy to spot damage on late senders, just check the condition of the wire visible through the cut out in the sender body where the float arm scrapes across.
