Devon Moonraker worktop replacement

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Molteni Mike, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. Existing worktop has suffered from the chipboard crumbling, so this winter's job is to replace it all. Quite a big job as the R+R bed has to first come out to then remove the big unit.

    Seems to be about 12 mm thick, and faced with "formica" on both sides.

    Is the worktop material available? Or where do I source something similar.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    EBay for Formica or laminate, use ply instead of chipboard/weetabix!
     
    snotty likes this.
  3. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You will weep at the price of Formica. It is now in the league of luxury items you pose about in the wine bar, fitted next to the Aga by a tradesman who drives a Porsche.
    ! £200 a sheet.

    Peel the old wood breadcrumbs off the back of the lold laminate and glue it to some marine plywood.

    Or sometimes I mix up runny epoxy resin and soak it into dried out Devon Weetabix to harden it up in situ. Like the overhead locker started crumbling so I picked up the pieces, mixed with epoxy and filled the holes.
     
    bluerustybucket and womball like this.
  4. bluerustybucket

    bluerustybucket Supporter

    It could be worth trying a local shop fitter. In my old job we used a company call Vanesta. Who did toilet cubicles the type you get in schools and offices. A sheet of that would probably be right and from memory they did lots of colours. I'd be interested to see how you get on as our units are suffering the same

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
  5. The R&R bed doesn't need to come out to remove any of the units.

    From memory, unscrew the hinges for the tops, then pull out the cooker/fridge unit, then the blanket box /gas cupboard can slid out.
     
  6. mcswiggs

    mcswiggs Supporter

    image.jpeg I restored mine, though to be honest they weren't as bad as that. If they'd expanded I'd soften them up with steam, drench in wood glue and clamp up to the original thickness. Then fill the missing bits with wood filler and paint over with eggshell paint I got matched and mixed on a roller. Then new plastic t-edges or iron on edging.
     
  7. Hi ! I've got the same problem with my Moonraker interior where some bits are failing !
    My idea was to use the base / bases of the r and r bed to renew the tops etc that are seen ? .
    Not done this as yet but at least all visual surfaces will be like original once again !
    Look forward to hearing if you can get new stuff from somewhere though .
     
  8. I hope no one minds me asking these q's on a thread about table repair!

    On a 'unmodified' moonraker do you have to remove the cushions to make the rock and roll bed, or can you rock and roll it with all cushions in place?

    When the bed is out does it stop you opening any draws/cupboards?

    I had a recent trip away in a moonraker, when sitting on the back seat and standing i kept wacking my head on the opening to the roof, is this normal or had the roof been 'modified'?

    thanks
     
  9. Pudelwagen

    Pudelwagen Supporter

    You don't have to remove the cushions to unfold the bed but they can get trapped between the moving bits if you don't ease them up a little.

    The gas cupboard and the one next to it can be opened just a little with the bed down. The rearmost draw can be opened fully if you lift the cushion up a bit. The front cupboard and drawer are unaffected.
     
  10. thanks for the info
     
  11. I rushed out with great excitement only to discover that BOTH faces of the R+R woodwork were cream coloured, rather than the dark brown needed for the worktop.
     
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  12. Gutted for you mate ! Mine are brown and beige ?. It's a 72/ 73 conversion. Where are you based ?
     
  13. did you get the cupboard out? Thats our job this weekend - sounds too easy unscrew the hinges for the tops and slide everything out!
     
  14. Just finished a pleasant 3 hours gluing then cutting the 4 sections of worktop to size. Will take pictures and post as a separate thread when finished. Cupboards don't need to come out after all. The piano hinges are screwed into the back of the worktop, and pop riveted into pre-drilled holes in the unit back. Just realised I forgot to improve on the original design, by making a slight cutout to the right hand front edge of the larger right hand top, to allow for the back of the seat cushion.

    Actually I'm a bit annoyed with myself for bringing forward what should clearly be a winter job. Much more pressing issues on the bodywork for the remains of the summer :rolleyes:
     
    mcswiggs likes this.

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