The engine still sees 65 psi just after startup and 45psi running on a normal day, with idle at 15-20 psi (a 15K mile JK Preservation Parts engine) . The build sheet that came with the engine had oil pressure measured as 45 psi with the supplied stock pump, so no change noticeable.
Thanks for that. I may have to bite the bullet and get the 'rebuilt' motor stripped and checked as one built at the same time and from the same builder seized due to poor cleanliness. Loads of debris in the motor. So whilst I am at it I might as well do the job properly and drill and tap the casing to suit a full flow system. Thanks for all the advice and taking the trouble to photograph your work. Cheers John
Do that. At least you'll make a good job of it. Drilling/tapping two of the oil galleries is really the best/tidiest method. Not without its hassles, but much neater than bolt-on kit. You can see my tappings in the pic I posted.
Of course the drilling and tapping for full flow may be the root cause of the metal in an engine. Its why I chose to keep the swarf outside my engine , otherwise you have to be careful and use compressed air, or remove the oilway galley plugs and clean it properly. Just saying the reason that other engine having siezed might not be the builder
Well neither of the other engines were full flowed just line bored,rebuilt and reinstalled back into customer vehicles. That's why I think a strip and reassemble may well be a prudent route in my case. I certainly wouldn't drill/tap the motor in one piece that's the whole point of the discussion to find an alternative method people have used when faced with option of not wanting to strip the entire engine down to achieve a full flow system. Many thanks for all your input. It is much appreciated. Do don't happen to know a reliable and trustworthy engine builder in the West Midlands/ Welsh borders please. Cheers John
