OK...here's a bit of very early morning gauntlet throwing, for anyone who cares to contribute: The Type 1 upright engine uses positive crankcase ventilation to recirculate oil mist and blow-by gases back into the sump and carb respectively...as far as I understand it, air is drawn through the pulley seal (unless you're running a sand seal) and gets drawn up through the alt stand by vacuum developed in the air cleaner, via the the carb...oil collected drains back into the sump via the alt stand....gases get recirculated through the carb via the air cleaner.... Assuming this is correct (and I'm not 100%, so feel free to chip in), if I'm fitting a CB type breather box (that mounts directly to the alt stand, I plan the to route a hose from the breather box to the stock air cleaner box (to reinstate the 'draw'....and route another hose from the base of the breather box into a fuel pump blanking plate, (with barbed hose connection) to prevent any oil from pooling in the bottom of the breather box... Is their merit in this set-up? Your thoughts would be most welcome.... BTW....this is what happens when, rather than going out and getting leathered like everyone else on New Year's eve, you decide to stay in and get tanked up on Tea and family-sized Toblerone
Breather box? Why? Useless piece of shiney tat unless you're connecting up the rocker covers as well and you don't need to do that unless you're building a high revving nutter engine, or yours has very worn valve guides. Why collect all that crud up in a box that you have to empty, when the stock system deals with it via a simple pipe with stuffing inside. 0/10 I don't get it.
Thought you might say that.... The main reason for fitting the CB breather was to put and end to fannying around with jugs and a flexi-funnel when it comes to oil fill- up....basically, it's replacing what was already there with something more convenient. If a 90 degree filler was available at the time I'd've gone down that route. Anyway....aside from your disparaging remarks regarding worthless shiny tat (), does my suggested hose routing sound right? Especially the return via the fuel pump block-off....maybe a belts and braces approach, but I've got the barbs and hose from a previous job, so stands me at nowt.....
As far as I can see, the extra return is pointless, just block up dizzy hole and and let the oil dribble back where nature intended. It will look neater too, it's quite easy to end up with an engine bay full of pipework. I intended mine to be a "sleeper" with a single carb and looking as stock as possible when I started and look what happened! I've moved the oil filter now, but still...
And yes those are jam-jar lids screwed to the engine bay roof and no I didn't but they make me laugh.
I don't know. Either 1) To hold up the tar boards 2) There were once jam jars attached, containing useful service items. I guess 1).
No, it leaked so I went back to standard while I fixed the pulley, but left the tensioner in place as it wasn't in the way.
Fair enough! I've been thinking of putting one up front... Anyway, apologies for the off topic post - carry on...
I found out that with one of the flexi filler Draper jugs - if you try to use it on a cold day the spout snaps half off , the bit remaining sits nicely in the stock oil filler with the jug balanced upside down on the nose of the stock oil bath air cleaner. Problem solved. Cold 20/50 wont fall out while you turn it upside down either.... I used to have the even more useless shiny EMPI oil filler with tiny breather spigot, but chucked it because the thread stripped on it and the breather hole was about 25% of the size it needed to be. And the oil filler hole ended up higher than the stock filler making it even more of a pain.
I used to use a little hand operated transfer pump, straight fro the can, but this breather box it's much less hassle....don't understand why folk have a downer on breather boxes...VW fitted them as stock....very few people bother to clean them out....good aftermarkets make the job easier....what's not to like?
