Considering front beam torsion springs replacements

Its unlikely the torsion spring on the front is weekened by age. A coil is a different animal and prone to breakage. Unless they are broken leave the original parts in there and improve any handling issues with the addition of decent shox and I mean decent ones not a pair for £50 but something like SPAX adjustables and fit a beefier anti roll bar, decen quality ball joints and steering rod ends steering rag joint and adjust the steering box properly... fit decent tyres that are close to the if not on the van weight spec and ditch any car radials tah might be fitted . Im not an advocate of full on van rated tyres , but a decent rating well over that of a car tyre and getting toward a decent van rating would be a good move You dont need to fit big aspect tyres either, there are plenty low profile van tyres on the market . Mines are not perfect but I have Avon 185/ 60s van rated on the front and 195 / 65 van rated ( heavier rating than the front) on the rear.. if you try to rock the van you cant... It does have a full set of Sax adjustables, Heavy anti roll bars front and rear and poly bushes where there are bushes.. .. havent actually driven it yet but it sits well .. lol..

 

Thanks !



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Exactement

 

Too many times I did the noob thing of replacing a part 'because I could buy a new one'.

Eventually I learned that you need to keep every part removed from the bus for several years before scrapping it, unless it leaves in a bucket of unrecognizable lumps or several pieces separated by large holes.
Because the 'new' part will be either Chinese or 'reconditioned' often aka cleaned up a bit.

Your slightly rusty OG parts will soon be better than the 'new parts', unless you pay a LOT for the new parts.
You will learn a new perspective on what is truly beyond saving and what can be cleaned and patched up.

e.g. I still have about 80% of my old destroyed engine - there would need to be a lot of machine work and weldign done to reassemble the parts but one day an engine case needing new case savers and some creative work on a crack will be better than the one I currently have.

And I fixed a warped five year old brake drum by removing the new one and cleaning up the old one and replacing it...

If your torsion springs have really let you down, either lower the rear to match or fit adjusters to the front so that you can raise the suspension that way.

 

Ahhh the continuing realisation that new parts are truly crap... Today I was bleading the brakes on my van.. new and I mean all new brake system from master cylinder to the tiniest clip, resevoirs and all ...

so the bleeding commenced, with some proper manky crap flowing from the bleed nipple on the farthest rear point real nasty looking crap... it cleared eventually but were had it come from, It was all new parts and this was the first bleed and first time with fluid in.. Then having got around to the reconditioned calipers, all went well untill the lower bleed on the right front decided it wouldn't nip up, removed the new bleed from the recon caliper to find the threads on the nipple were defective, as in manufacturing defect, not stripped. Looked out a rusty manky old caliper and removed the crusty bleed nipple with some vice grips and used it in the new caliper, locked up solid with no weeping... so even the crappiest and cheapest original part will get you out of a hole ... whereas the new part is likely to drop you in the merde.. or so it would seem