Two questions which are confusing me. I have a 1979 late bay. I believe it started off as a van, but received the interior and pop roof from an earlier camper that was rotten. Some of the other bits seem to have moved over. The headlights are the older 3 screw system, and need replacing, I have a set of mint golf headlights but they only appear to fit the newer 1 screw system. It is worth trying to convert to the newer type, or stick with what I have, there are a brand new set of 3screw chrome trims that came with it. All the 3 screw parts seem really dear. Also, the ignition switch doesn't work the starter motor. A start. button has been installed. I tried to return it back to key operation, but the switch may be burnt out as there is a brief dim flash on the tester bulb as the key is turned against the spring, when connected to the starter wiring it does nothing. Is there meant to be a starter relay I need to look for? The wiring is a mess, so I am trying to remove the non standard wiring and put it all back to original but fixing problems as they emerge. This is proving frustrating. Thanks
New ignition switch should fix that issue and a check of the wiring. As for headlights I think it depends on what bowls you have. 1 screw in the other ring is the better ones to have I think Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
It is on Isle of Man plates so the M isn't relevant to its age, it's got my own personal reg on now anyway.
im going to have to play dumb on this one. I understand Land Rover Defender irony after having one for 5 years, but Bay irony is new to me. Is this a common fault or just the quality of the electrics, or just plain old unreliability?
Likely that your ignition switch is on the way out. There's nothing special about starting a Bay, apart from the length of cables involved. A starter relay at the back is always a good idea.
That is basically a worn out ignition switch. I think even the GSF switches will work. Mine must be 30k miles old now.
Ok great, I can sort that out easy enough, I'll get a new ignition switch next time I am ordering stuff, and then wire via a relay.
You need to stick the relay down the back, ideally in the engine compartment, driving the starter solenoid. That way the ignition switch is only driving the relay coil, overcoming probs with a mile of ancient wiring. Also means that the switch starter contacts aren't being killed by the back EMF from the solenoid coil (which is why the contacts don't last long, I suspect).
Just realised I have a T25 column in the garage with the ignition switch on, that first link says it is the same part. I'll check it out in the morning, thanks. May have saved me from a major faff about. Cheers the one on my bay isn't at an angle like that one so I thought it was different.
Hey Kerrie, this really is one of those standard issue problems with these old beasties. As said above ^^^the switch is most likely the issue. If however, you fit a new or replacement switch, it may indeed work but not last very long because of all the issues mentioned above like wire age and length etc etc. So do yourself a big favour and get it working with your newer switch but still smack that relay down in the noisey cupboard, the best /usual place and close to the starter is on the wheelbarch as far back as you can get , and that will make for a tidy install. Quite a few 'how too's' about on here and on the Early forum. Sometimes this mod is referred to as a Hot Start problem/solution, relay. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,, sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs
OK. Just trying to be helpful for future parts issues as it looks like an earlier model than 79 due to the lock in the handle on the sliding door and 79s didn't have three screw headlamps. if its got flush engine lid hinges, a petrol flap over the filler and paddle style column controls its probably not. A lot gets changed over the years I suppose. but often things tend to add up to give an indication of the true origins or year.
To be fair I had sort of assumed as much, None of the parts really seem to match the year, most of it is more <76 It has a fuel flap, paddle controls and an older engine hatch modded to the later pin hinge. Make of that what you will. The brief history I have is that it was pretty much a bare shell and most of the trim etc was transferred from the older bus.
Hello again. As an update on this, I fried the replacement ignition switch, which was my own fault as I connected it up wrong as I’m used to Land Rover wiring. But the second replacement switch now won’t turn far enough to engage the starter. The slot has opened up and the switch is twisting in the barrel. Which was not useful in the middle of a roundabout yesterday, and the wife had to push start me (I don’t mess with my wife) Anyway, should I give up and go back to the start button, or is there any point in trying yet another ignition switch? Oh and another point, I fitted a start relay in the back and that is working just fine, it’s the switch chewing up not burning out.
Sounds like you have been unlucky with the new switch, they normally last a bit longer than that! I replaced mine but, as I suggested, I put in a starter button and a relay. I use the button most of the time as I find it easier. It's really up to you if you want a starter switch on the ignition but they aren't the most reliable items, or the easiest to replace!
