Is there a way of testing the condenser on a svda Bosch dizzy. The reason I ask is I've got one that I've had years and before I put it in I want to check the condenser is ok before it causes any problems and having to change anything that "might" not be working . Just wondered if you could use multi meter to test it or any other way ? Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
Not really. Unless you stress-test it, you'll never know whether it's duff or not. You could stick a meter across it - any less than open-circuit would indicate it's knackered.
power the dissy up and pull the points open if you get a spark across the points the condenser has had it.
Ok thanks for replys just was wondering if there was a test before installing it thanks . Will shove it in a see what sparks I get . Got elecy ignition now but think the module is playing up . Due to erratic sparking on the plugs thanks . Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
When testing the condenser with a multimeter, first isolate the condenser from the engine by disconnecting the lead wire. The small metal connector at the condenser's end is the power link, and the metal case of the part is the grounding point. Discharge the part by shorting the lead wire. Next, switch the meter to ohms and place the red-colored lead into the meter's resistance connector. Insert the black lead into the meter's common connector. Set the resistance range to the highest setting. Link the test leads before zeroing the meter. Touch the red lead to the condenser's power connector, and apply the black lead to the condenser's metal case. The needle on the meter should move slightly toward the right before dropping back to the left. Hold each lead in place for approximately 20 seconds. If the test shows any other reading, then leaking is indicated, and the condenser must be replaced. Remove the leads for this part of the test, and reverse the application or placement. Movement of the needle indicates the part is good, while any lack of movement indicates a replacement is needed.
The trouble is the condenser is a self-healing dielectric capacitor. If you have an HT flashover to the coil primary it can blow a hole in the insulation. The metal layers and insulation round the hole vaporise clearing the short and the condenser keeps on working. But reduced in its effectiveness. Eventually the spark gets weak. If the old condenser is working keep using it as a new one will likely be made in China. And there is a problem that a lot of plastics sheet used in the insulators in condensers suffers from being made in filthy places and comes with ready made holes and dirt. My last replacement condenser (popped Accuspark) ran for about 35 miles before becoming a spectacular rev limiter .. the engine would rev up the condenser would break down and then as the revs dropped it would fire an exhaust system full of fuel-air mix. rrrrm rrrrm BANG! every 10 seconds.. A NOS condenser is your best bet, or the one that is working today.
Thanks for the reply sounds a bit complicated but will have a go with the meter electrics ohms currents and all that ain't my strong point . And @mikedjames this was the reason i asked if there was a simple test with the original one as didn't want to buy a "new" one and have issues due to it and me thinking it carnt be that as it's new. As we all know "new" parts are very hit and mis these days Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
There's no earthly reason for anyone to make condensers and contact breakers any more, which is why "new" ones tend to be junk.
Ahh yes with modern stuff points ect are positively archaic. But people must buy the junk ones otherwise surely they wouldn't make junk ones??? I mean as if anyone would make junk electric ignition lol Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
The strange thing is I put my dodgy condenser on a capacitor tester, and it read 100% good when tested at low voltage. Electronic ignition units also suffer when fed high back EMFs (think thousands of volts instead of normal hundreds of volts) off coils where people are testing them by pulling plug leads making the secondary voltage higher than when firing plugs ... and also where the HT flashes over back to the primary. After all when the plug fires with a 0.6 mm gap it needs about 2-3kV to fire, when you pull the lead off it is more like 50-70kV to jump 25mm. So the primary side voltage spike as the points or switching transistor disconnects the current in the coil gets ten or twenty times bigger when you are messing with the leads - potentially causing damage .. Some of these cause progressive damage, resulting in the electronic unit fading away like points would.
