Compression issue? Parts and guide to fix

I forgot the good old electronic ignition.. these can get too hot and half die, producing all kinds of rough running. I have left the M27 with an engine that cut the spark at about 3000 rpm with a massive backfire, and restarted immediately the revs dropped.

Another one that just died when you cranked it and it was a bit cold.

Another one that just ran rough and caused a drop in power.


.Electronic points modules. Thats why I also have a pre- timed points distributor sitting in my spares in the bus.

Problems appeared over about 80K miles.

 

I also have the original Bosch one runs exactly the same. Total miles are unknown as I have an after market dash which says 4500 which I dont think is correct. Would the timing just go out after driving fine for 1000 miles tho. It could this is why I am here

 

Bit late now but next time you think you have a lifter problem ask on here for help. It's not a particularly difficult job, just takes a little bit of know how and a bit of time. That's what you paid this guy for, his time not his expertise.

 

£60 an hour.
For future Reference
I charge £ 15 an hour.

 

So I've taken the cover off didn't know how to turn it by hand so this is it with the engine running



Side note thought I'd check the oil level turns out there was none so have now topped it up

 

If I wasn't 300 miles away I would be round every week with a new job for you to do

 

This is good to know, I’m only in Preston & know Brig quite well

 

Mental note made....is your location still as shown in your Avatar?

 

If you have been running it with no oil in it, it's probably going to be fecked.. when did you last check the oil? And where has it gone, massive oil leak? Or did the engine burn oil?

 

It was as full before I drove it 1000 miles

 

Is the bottom of the engine soaked in oil?

 

I would say about 20ml in total. No more than a tea towel could handle.

I think when I broke down it must have burnt the oil as I could hear it bubbling away from the heat

 

No that oil went somewhere through a leak.

If you burnt 2 litres of oil the road behind would have been smokescreened out of view.

Without oil the engine may have reached destruction point in several places - bearings melted, pistons melted.

Drain the oil and inspect it for a metallic sheen. (bearings) or chunks of piston..

Sounds like if you had checked the oil more often like every time you filled up with petrol, you might have seen the level falling and by topping it up as well, you might have avoided this.

Over 1000 miles even a 'in spec' engine will drop the oil level noticeably. One with problems can do it faster..

 

Looking at the video of the rockers, the left hand cylinder rockers particularly the exhaust one has very little movement. This could be the cam worn or the followers or maybe the rocker pedestal has come loose? Worth a check.

 

If the engine is cream crackered i am in the throws of rebuilding a 1911 type 4 motor at the moment. It will be a short motor but i can build it with new heads if required. Won’t be ready for a couple of months though.

 

^this. No oil is not good.

 

Sorry to be a pain to drain the oil do I just undo the strainer one?

 

On a type 4 avoid the strainer one there's an oil drain plug to the side of it

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

No! don’t remove the strainer bolt, if it’s been over tightend it will break the case. Just remove the sump drain bolt.

 

Done now what do I do