cold starting 2l with webers?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by rob.e, Apr 15, 2015.

  1. My bus has a stock type 4, 2 litre but with the factory fuel injection replaced with weber 34ICT carbs.

    When it's warm it starts great, first click. If its cold though it sometimes takes a couple of goes..

    What's the best method for starting? A couple of pumps of the throttle first to get some fuel in? or start with the throttle cracked open a little? Or just let it churn a couple of times?

    or? Its got standard ignision system - would it be any better with electronic/ accuspark or similar?

    TIA.
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    it doesn't have chokes so needs a richer mixture - gently pump the pedal as you turn it over.
    ICT's on short manifolds tend to boil away the petrol when you stop which can mean you have to turn it over to refill the bowls. Some bakerlite or similar spacers under the carbs help.
     
    rob.e likes this.
  3. Thanks zed. I'll try that next time.
     
  4. Iv allso got 34icts and after a week it started struggling to start but it allways did , only in the winter this weather it seems to start 1st time !!
     
  5. JT1

    JT1

    That explains why it takes so long to restart sometimes! Would adding a heatshield also work do you think?
     
  6. that's kinda what the Bakerlite spacer is doing. I wouldnt bother about a heat shield as you could end up with carb icing if you cut out too much heat. rule of thumb for me is no throttle when it's warm and about a 1/4 throttle when starting. Ive got the old mechanical pump but have heard that with the electric pumps that you can flood it very easily of you hold the throttle with the key on without actually going to the start position. dont have lecy pump so not sure if that's true or not
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ideally you want the inlet manifold hot but not the carb so the bakerlite type spacers between the carb and manifolds do this. Mine were only about 2-3mm thick and it started on the button every time from cold and in a few seconds when it was hot.
    You can't shield the heat because it comes up the manifold from the head.
     
    JT1 likes this.
  8. JT1

    JT1

    Thanks for both the replies and explanations, especially the dimensions for the spacers. I'm more used to the the old BMC A series engines which had nylon spacers about 1" thick and a metal heat shield to stop fuel vapourising from their SU carbs. The van has a Facet cube electric pump which makes a racket hot or cold, the Empi Webers have no choke so a couple of pumps gets it started from cold but needs a several seconds cranking when hot.
     
  9. Try a hot start at full throttle - it should fire up immediately.
     
  10. JT1

    JT1

    Thanks marcT512,
    Have tried that but still takes quite a few cranks to get it going (must be age!) but fires up on the button when cold after a couple of pumps.
     
  11. Was that stuff ok for spacers or did you buy some of the end.
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It's mighty fine and I used it for the Dells. :)
     
    Dicky likes this.
  13. Don't come on here with your stories of A series joy or I'll tell you all about the fun I've had with a K - Kettle series Boat Anchor!
     
    JT1 likes this.
  14. Havent done mine yet. It involves time and patience. neither of which I currently have.
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Drill stud holes and tap to M8 so you can hold it down to the manifold then route with a bit like the one on the left. Piece of cake. :)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page