Hi. I have just reattached my clutch cable after doing some stuff and also putting a new input shaft seal in, and i cant get any tension on my clutch pedal whatsoever. The cable is wound right up to the end of the thread. Could it be its just stretched and run its course even though it worked before i loosened it and removed the clutch release bearing? Or i havnt put things back correctly? Got a couple of pics.
Is your clutch flexi conduit firmly attached at both ends? Looks a bit odd in the pic. PS Best to clip your fuel line to the "ceiling" where it runs over the trannie, if it isn't already.
I agree your outer cable doesn't look right on the bracket, people often put a big washer or two between the outer and the bracket to effectively make the Bowden longer which makes the cable shorter and gives s bit more adjustment on the wing nut.
You'll find you've got plenty of pedal travel if there's nothing for the release bearing to press against Adjust the clutch with the motor in.
Preferably 100% ethanol resistant DIN 73379 TYPE 3 E. http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/petrol--diesel-fuel-hose-inc-hoses-for-bio-fuels-89-c.asp
That is what I've used from that company for all my fuel injection hoses, so far so good (2 years). But rather use the correct fuel line clips and not jubilee ones.
Jubilee hose clips are correct fuel line clips; they manufactured the first worm drive hose clamp in 1921 and have been making them ever since. It is a myth, believed by many, that worm drive hose clips are not hose clips. The nut and bolt type clip has one advantage; it is more difficult to use the wrong size – we have probably all seen a large worm drive clip on a small hose with a large portion of the band through the drive. It is far more important to use the correct size of clip than the type, neither the nut and bolt nor the worm drive clips are perfect but either is equally adequate. Making a sound hose joint is easy; -Use the correct material hose for the fluid -Use the correct size of hose (slightly smaller than the barb or pipe) -Use the correct size of nut and bolt or worm drive clip for the hose -Don’t overtighten the clip – if it is necessary to horse it up to stop a leak the hose is the wrong size.
Indeed it is down to personal choice and to say ‘But only use the correct fuel line clips and not jubilee ones’ is wrong. But you’re not the only one; the internet is littered with statements that worm drive hose clips should not be used as hose clips, that’s how myths propagate.
And now you know better. For those still believing the myth the facts in the ‘Fuel Hose Clip Selection’ on the Volksbolts site might be of interest. http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm
Ive always used them and, ive always been told they are wrong. Ive never had a problem with them ever. Yes, after a couple of years you loosen them and the pipe might be soft and chewed but ive never had a leaky problem
If the hose is soft it’s not due to the clip; it’s likely to be the wrong material. And if the hose is damaged or chewed the clip is too tight. If the correct size hose is used (smaller than the barb or pipe) the clip just needs to gently grip the hose, it should not be used to squash a hose that is too large – the same applies regardless of the clip type.
