Going to tackle changing the gasket on my single port Weber carb, I know it’s an easy task but having never done it before any tips or thing to watch out for before I attempt it over the weekend. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Depends which Weber, but on the progressive, the choke flap linkage has a tiny C clip on it, where it engages on the end of the lever that operates the flaps and there is a piece of slotted plastic around the choke flap arm that slides inside the casting. Dont drop either of them.
It’s leaking. Mechanic I use picked up on it, trail of evaporated fuel residue coming from it. Unfortunately he’s too busy to do it and says I should be able to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok this sounds like a recipe for disaster. Will check which it is when o get home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That fuel leak is normal and serious. But if you are careful sometimes you can separate the top of the carb without destroying the gasket. Except when you do not have a spare. I was recommended to fit a fuel shutoff solenoid to minimise leakage risk (and fires). The leaks tend to mix with engine oil which is bad. Dont skip this process, hope you have a fuel metering needle valve - that is the cause of the leak, the fuel from the gasket is a symptom not a cause.
May well be that your float bowl is overflowing, which would need attending to. ^ but this is the right solution. Just get rid of the thing.
It’s been running great for the last 3 years I’ve owned it, what is the issue with these carbs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where do I start... They are just unnecessarily hard work for a less than satisfactory result. I believe their use has spread from off road buggy type engines in the USA where people wanted to keep the carbs out of the worst of the muck thrown up and twin carbs are a no-no. They know they are not ideal but their hands are somewhat tied. They have long intake runners that allow fuel to drop out of suspension. an original single carb installation has that part heated and also feeds hot air in the top when the engine is cold to get over these real problems where your carb does not. It's like taking all the problems of running a single carb on a flat 4 engine and none of the solutions...and there is no reason to do it, there are loads of better alternatives.
I edited and added some more of the why they are less than ideal. If yours is set up and fine then someone has done a good job and fair enough. Yes, twin carbs are better.
Yes, definately. As @zedders said, it’s mystifying why folk fit them, as they have absolutely no advantages over a standard carb.
Thanks For the detailed response. Will keep it as it is, with a new gasket, whilst it’s running ok. I’m planning a full resto in the next couple of years so will look at better alternatives then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, normal, a known feature caused by the effect of vibration on Weber carbs. Serious because of filling oil with petrol. Yes they are badly installed as a rule and a bad choice on a T4 engine and tricky on a T1. But I enjoyed the challenge. At the time (2011) I chose it was a dodgy Chinese 34PICT3 clone for £140 or a new made in Spain genuine Weber progressive for £250. A difference of 2 fill-ups of fuel..
Your mechanic is yet another who doesnt know these carbs. You probably NEED a new needle valve. The fuel should never reach the gasket level to leak out in the first place except on a steep hill. If you leave it you will be getting fuel in your oil . Potential goodbye engine time if you just fix the gasket..
