can i get the sliding door to close with out slaming it ?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mini_Bungle, May 23, 2012.

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  2. Look I'm no expert but on mine you slide the door shut then lift the outer handle to pull the back of the door in.
    The inner handle has to be fitted pointing down to allow this to happen.
    Could be wrong but on mine that's why the scoop on the door panel is recessed upwards as well as down.
    Hope this helps and I'm not proved to be a muppet
    Al
     
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  6. The zip of a tent is a sound i love waking up to in a morning along with the sound of a kettle whistling

    Sliding doors slamming aint all that bad unless its a party bus and its being opend and shut all night long

    The noise of an erber or propex running all night isnt the most pleasent though
     
  7. Kruger

    Kruger Sponsor

    Have your sills been changed recently/previously??

    I'm still in the tweaking phase of trying to make a sliding door run properly in a JK inner sill :-

    So far the tools of choice are a big hammer, a punch and some select holes drilled in the floor to adjust the lower track. :-[
     
  8. yes the sills have been replaced in the past

    i don't think this is the problem as the door slides with no problem it's just bringing the back of the door in and latching that needs the big slam
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You might have the striker plate too low so the wedge bit it stopping the door closing.
     
  10. i just think its normal. There isnt really a cure if everything works, then it works. When i am inside the van and i close the door, i can see the need for a handle to shut the door at the rear, so will be fitting that. But it is 36 yrs old, i think it has a right to be a bit noisy.

    My motto is wee before you go to bed.

    PSG
     
  11. Get one of those electric sliding doors like on that people carrier in 'Get Shorty'. Just a click on the remote O0
     
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  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    One thing you can try is adjusting the cables going to the back catch. Also theres a little pin in the lock mechanism that chews a groove in the door and the pin also gets worn out and thinner. The wobbly little pin makes the cable adjustment difficult.
    It also makes the little lock lever inside stop working on mine.
     
  15. anymore info

    adjust the cable how and how does it help

    what pin is it inside the door or on the out side ?
     
  16. bernjb56

    bernjb56 Supporter

     
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  18. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Buy a Bentley Workshop Manual it has proper instructins.

    The adjustment is just behind the front lock. It is a long hex nut with a locknut. Undo this until the two halves of the cable drop apart. Once separated you wind the nut in either direction to lengthen or shorten the cable. Bring the loose end back up to the nut and engage the thread without turning the nut too much. Lower the door handle to reduce tension in the cable.
    Once the thread is engaged wind the nut forwards towards the lock and test. On my setup it works best if you need to put a little tension on the cable so the handle is up slightly at rest.

    The little pin runs in a curved groove in the lock. This is touching the door when the lock is fitted. Dont lose the pin. I think its meant to be a constant diameter with a flat head. Mine has worn with a stepped profile which means when the rear lock locks properly the front one does not lock fully....And so on
     
  19. thanks
     

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