Hi all you door fitment experts 1974 lhd Outline- old doors were to far gone so I purchased 2x later bay doors with the small and threaded hinge, removed that bit and fitted the original hinge halves using a hinge conversion bush kit, reskinned the doors Fitted new complete arches and front panel Had it all painted, the original door fitted great, shut lines/aware This is what I have been left with now, it's both sides exactly the same so I'm thinking hinge problem The doors need to go forward as it catches the striker(no lock fitted) up at the back, down at the frontal whilst keeping aware line, I've tried all movement in the hinge but it is limited Thanks for all the previous help, but this is a Pita Please see the pics
Does the original door still fit great? If not it may be all the other metal work around it. If so, then it's either the new doors (did you try them in place at any point before painting?) or that the old ones were 'made' to fit. I feel you pain - I had a Beetle that did this but it was all the metal work around it. Had to cut and shrink the front screen aperture in the end. Thankfully the screen still fitted but it wasn't perfect.
At what point did the OG doors fit great? After arch and body repairs? Are you saying you then repaired the doors and painted everything without trial fitting them?
From the photos in your second bunch, that door needs to be lower and the front/higher at the rear...but the first pic shows the opposite? If that's correct... no I won't say any more until you've confirmed a few things.
I think that's right, Osf door = needs to go down at the front to meet swage line up at the rear to keep gutter line, but it all needs to go forward so the door don't hit the striker, if that makes sense
The old doors as far as I can remember opended/closed with no issues and the swage was fine Trial fitted the doors with new arches in on old front panel, but can't seem to find a pic of the complete lot fitted, I would have thought I would have fitted it all together
It will be difficult to find but there was a case on here with someone doing these repairs having a similar problem and the answer was that the during the repairs the front had dropped.
I had this thought myself, but all the repairs were done whilst it was sat on its wheels, at the moment it is sat on a trolley do you think if I was to drop it down on its wheels it would make a difference and fix it Please say yes Please say yes I should give it a try anyway
I suffered about a 5mm ping doing the front panel and the door step join to the A pillar. Not enough to stop my doors closing, but the "restorers" in 2010 had originally had to beat the hell out of the bottom of a BRAND NEW JK passenger door to get its bottom edge to shorten a bit to fit the step (I think the door steps have been done 2 or 3 times and crept across each time ... )
As an update Bus is now supported by the chassis at the front and by doing so has masivly improved the door fit on the Osf I think having it suspended on the trolley with the front axle fully built and fitted has bowed it slightly, I'm tempted to add a bit of weight at the b pillar behind front seats where the trolley ends in a day or so to help resettle it Any more advice is welcome
I remember seeing some body flex in mine when I was replacing the front beam and temporarily had it supported similarly to yours above (under the cross member behind the cab). I was a bit concerned at the time but it came good when it dropped back onto it's wheels. 23 years and 50,000 miles later and the door alignment all still good, fortunately I had it sitting on it's wheels (or under the beam) when I'd replaced the arches previously. Hopefully you can get yours back to where it needs to be by doing as you are. Good luck
