Probably not using fuel quicker than the pump delivers it (certainly not at idle) - if you take the air filter off with it running and look down the throat (use a mirror if possible as it helps with preventing eyebrow removal should it ignite whilst you're peering in...) you'll quite probably see fuel just running in either through the main or if its really bad through the overflow pipe. The needle valve in my rebuild kit (VWH supplied) keeps sticking open, its awful. Put the old one back in the end, was better than the low quality approximation supplied with the kit. As above, quick fix would be to take the top off the carb (in-situ minding the little screws and the hungry screw gobbling opening in the carb!) and bend the float tab so the float closes earlier - pushes harder against the valve then so more chance of sealing it.
Same for type fours The float valve in the carbs shuts of the fuel from flowing and filling the engine If the valve is worn or debri etc stuck in it then fuel will gravity feed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shouldn't an electric fuel pump and a pressure regulator stop fuel flowing through when engine not running also?
I can't see a pressure regulator stopping the flow of fuel via gravity I'm not sure about an electric fuel pump You still want your float valves working properly otherwise it will over fuel when running and cause bore wash and poor running/poor fuel consumption Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's relatively rare all round, but I would blame muck in float valve most times. Worn ones might leak more readily on an incline?
Some repro solex float valves have a sprung steel ball in the end of the needle These can fall out and allow the float bowl to fill further than it should Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do facet fuel pumps make a noise constantly or should they stop when up to pressure like an SU would, ie with ign on but engine not running and pipe disconnected and my finger over the end? @paradox @zedders ?
Have been thinking about installing the above solenoid valve with manual override as a fire safety device. Would it suit your purpose? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162185771921?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
^^ that's the one i have in mine, been in about a year, seems to work fine. ignition off it's closed so yes it'll stop fuel being pumped past the valve to the carbs IF you remember to switch the ignition off when you jump out of the flaming van.. won't stop fuel getting as far as the valve though. I also wired in my fuel pump to my fire extinguisher so it cuts power to the pump if the extinguisher has been triggered, irrespective of ignition on/off etc.
If you have a fuel filter immediately downstream of the tank, @mikedjames suggests putting the solenoid valve downstream of this filter to give the valve a bit of protection. Location? somewhere I can (just) reach the manual override. Might combine the job with draining and flushing the petrol tank....also could try calibrating the fuel gauge.... (at least knowing what empty really looks like).