Good morning all, will doors ( drivers and passenger ) from a 1979 bus fit straight onto a 1973 bus? As in a straight swap? Many thanks , Jim .
There was a change in 1975 so the answer is no... Earlier the hinge pins are 15mm later years 8mm. So it may need some precise drilling of the hinges on the doors.. going the other way with early doors on later hinges less hassle (naturally the one you dont want) you can buy an adaptor kit with bushings.. Working on a solution is well worth taking the effort if the doors are any good. If your bus has a later set of doors anyway because it was built that way, the doors will be a drop in replacement.
Yes , the actual door is the same shape and as Mike says , the hinges differ but you can buy an adapter kit for about 20 quid . Think mine came from JK . Other differences are the locking method and check straps but it's easy enough to work around these minor problems so yes , if you get chance of a good door for reasonable money just buy it ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Ok thank you so much for the info , I’ll possibly repair my doors in time , if it was a simple swap then hooray but I guess I may have to repair the ones I have that fit in the doorway nicely . Appreciate your time .
Looks a great option and solution , they really have thought of everything . thanks again for the info , great help !
If the price is good, and the doors are good and unwelded they are worth having and fitting, because welding usually promotes more rot because it leaves bare metal in crevices between welded panels where condensation can collect.
You cannot get it between flat panels completely, there is always a ring of rust round a MIG weld , where the welding gas fails to protect the rear of the weld or between the panels, and then if there is the smallest crack in the sealer or pinhole and water gets in, it works against you by trapping the water instead. Spot welding may do better because a smaller volume of metal is melted where the panels are touching.. Or using panel adhesives properly. Creating a "bag" using POR15, seam sealer or just underseal can lead to a bag of rot if water ever gets in.. The ultimate treatment is the bare metal chemical dip or acid followed by galvanizing once the structure is complete. Like my 20+ year old Peugeots where there are bits of bare metal only just showing rust spots..
