You do expose yourself on here in regard to safety based stuff. Sometimes it's easier to keep stum so I appreciate your help. After all this I might have ended up with a thing the size of a shoe box - one of the main things that's always put me off 240V in the van. Now thanks to you I know I can do it with a thing the size of a fag packet. I'm happy.
Ooh dont get me wrong. Im not after cutting corners and to be honest i do get accused sometimes of being risk averse rather than the opposite. I do get sick of people doing thongs by wrote ie they dont think, they just do....hopefully the programming works and they get through but never question what they do. Its my job to question the norm, i do have people around me who i bounce ideas off and sometimes im wide of the mark but usually not. Im not often operational but when i am im safe and if im out of my depth i know it. Had a visit from a technician from Western power yesterday. What a freaking jobsworth. Im used to their engineers who have usually risen through the ranks because they are pragmatic and responsive. I Was extremely polite but i think i will deal with his boss in future.
I like this idea. So I need something like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wylex-2-Module-IP40-Insulated-Enclosure-Unit/p/106784 And one of the rcbo you linked? And I could stick a second module in the enclosure to have another circuit should I wish? If you're only having one module, why the 2 module enclosure? Is it just to have more space in there for wiring?
I think I could live with this box - 90mm wide instead of 45mm, but same depth and height as your one @Dicky http://www.meteorelectrical.com/4module-ip40-enclosure.html?osCsid=81bfbu5fvggnlc3816on3t6h76# Then if @matty says something is wrong I'll have room to stuff another in, but generally more room for the wires.
I cant argue with that. Well i could but theres absolutely no point. Incidentally my bus is parked at the back door, all hooked up with the battery charger on supply and the oil filled rad set on low to keep any condensation or frost at bay.
Actually... If your going a bit bigger then get one with a door on the front to keep the carp out and prevent unintionally tripping it.
The regs require a main on/off switch (to isolate everything), a 30mA RCD and double pole MCB(s) - which should be type B for this application. The RCD can double up as the main switch. So, if you install precisely one double pole RCBO as @Dicky has done, then as I see it, it ticks all three boxes and you can fit it in a small 1 or 2 module housing.
have we decided the right box to buy yet? although the one woody links looks good with built in charger.
Right I am awake again A few answers for @rickyrooo1 The tent ones are fine but if you use it in the van the bodywork needs to be earthed to the earth point inside the unit using atleast 4mm2 cable. You don't need to have 2 mcbs but each circuit needs to be protected. The easiest way is to do one circuit with sockets and plug every thing in If you go down the route of a rcbo be sure to get one that switches off both live and neutral MOST don't and only switch the live £50 should get everything you need For nice looking flush sockets look up the cbe range these are made for motorhomes and are smaller than house hold stuff
Going back to these two that @theBusmonkey suggested can someone explain to me why I would want one with two MCBs as opposed to one MCBs . Would I also be correct that this is simpler to wire in as opposed to the route @Dicky took, just a a bit bigger and more expensive. I don't mind bigger and more expensive if it is fool proof. I did look at @matty leisure electric thread but many of the web-links no longer work.
Just to split the loads TBH. For a simple example, if you were wiring a boat, you’d have a lighting circuit and a separate circuit for the plug sockets, both running off 230 but drawing different loads through the fuses. Same in a garage. But most of us don't live in our garage although there is a notable exception on the forum at the moment... The question is, do you need 2 separate circuits? @Dicky has all his 230v appliances running from one circuit which is the socket circuit in the example above. His fridge, charger, 230v accessories etc all have std plugs on and he can simply plug/unplug when he needs to. I have 2 circuits, one for the charger which is hard wired into a mcb and another for the socket. I did it this way coz I my ctek is in the engine bay & I cut the plug off it, it’s permanently installed so I just wired it into the spare mcb which gave me a bit more room in the box. Note I say socket, because I have just the one coz, everything in our bus runs on DC, through the charger when hooked up or direct from the battery when not. The single socket is my concession to Mrs Monkey needing a hairdryer and straighteners. Another consideration for me was that I didn’t want a load of sockets in the bus as it meant either cutting the panels or hiding them in cupboards, but that’s just a personal preference. All this guff is so much easier if you firstly decide what you want need/have that is 230v, plan where it's going and then work out how the wiring runs/socket points work in relation to using the bus. So, 2 mcbs if you want to split the loads or install a 230v light for camping when on hook-up. Personally, I don't see the point of a 230v light when good DC LED's are now readily available. Or 1 mcb if you can run everything neatly off a ring/radial main circuit. The only thing that now you need to work out is how much room you have for the cabling and box! If you go the route of 1 mcb feeding all your 230v requirements just think about where you install your appliances and place the ring of sockets accordingly. That applies to whether you use the Dicksters method or buy a complete enclosure/mcb. Dickies uses less space but he does know his leeks and the installation you see is the result of 20 years of bus ownership & camping combined with professional knowledge.
