Morning all, I’m after some advice about my brakes. I have had the van for years now and brakes are just Pap pedal is fine just takes ages to slow ✊ down and I appreciate its 46 years old ! But it doesn’t just feel it’s right / adequate. I am thinking of changing the master cylinder now it just looks a bit suss ! it has had rebuilt callipers : rear brakes rebuilt so all new/ recondition : but the bus has sat for a long time now so I want to give it a good once over again . It’s a 1973 stock 1.6 bay . I’ve a picture ( not the best sorry) Of current master cylinder - are some better thank others ? I am thinking possibly change the m/ cylinder and renew all fluid . I have a few questions I’d like some advice on please?! 1: any recommendations on new master cylinder are some better than others ? 2: which brake fluid would you use? 3: is it a simple swap or will I have to adjust brake pipes ? I am going to have a good read up through past comments to give me a bit more of a heads up . Amy advice / info is much appreciated as I thought I’d ask the experts first , thank you, Jim .
I changed mine last year .... mine was from Machine 7 .. you'll probably find that it won't be a straight swop, but I only had to bend pipework to align with holes and fit a blank as I had a surplus of holes in the new master cylinder. I use Dot 4 fluid, from memory.
I would say its not a quick swop and to be honest there are plenty of other bits to look at first, especially if the van is not well used. The master cylinder is in a fairly protected spot and just pushes the fluid to the calipers and slave cylinders which are a bit more likely to have sticky or seized pistons. Caliper pistons can easily get stuck if the small weather seal is damaged and rear brakes can be degraded if the brake shoes get contaminated with fluid. DOT 4 is the most commonly used fluid and compatible with the rubber in VW seals but it will absorb some water over time and many manufacturers recommend changing it every 2 years. So that is a useful first step, a full bleed of the system, then have a look at the calipers/discs checking for uneven wear perhaps suggesting a sticky piston, then pull the brake drums and have a look at the back. Then if you have a brake servo on the master cylinder its next in line for suspicion and finally the master cylinder. Hope this helps.
I don't think it helps that modern cheapy brake pads appear to be constructed more for long life than braking prowess i.e. they are a bit crap. I remember fitting them to my first westy and they "ruined" the brakes. This comes up quite often on here - I believe these days you can get better pads where 25 years ago they weren't available for our callipers. Is it Green Stuff or something like that? [edit] - here you are - try these. Before I changed my servo westy pads a mere touch of the brakes was through the windscreen type braking. Maybe these are as good? https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/uprated/ebc-green-stuff-front-brake-pads/volkswagen/transporter.html
Only problem I foresee is your 73 might need the thinner pads - mine did. Perhaps a harder look would find them.
Thank you all again for advice , before I’m too hasty I will have a better inspection of said areas .
Also be aware that badly adjusted rear brakes can eat up a lot of brake pedal travel before pressure builds. I would change the master cylinder only if its faulty. It will not give more pressure in the system if you swap for another with the same sized piston. Soft brake hoses ? Under used modern brake pads/shoes.. seem to need some firm braking to clear rust off them
