GRP under pedal trays are available from NoMoreRustyBits. http://www.nomorerustybits.com/index_files/Page1136.htm
A very good question – I have no idea what the holes are for, you can stick your finger in the big one but the little one is too small.
Are they not needed then I wonder? These panels are made to order so you could specify not having the holes. Thinking of getting one.
If they’re needed I don’t know what for but it’ll probably cost more to have one made without the holes. Hole deletion is very expensive you know.
That’s the best reason for the holes so far. Coarse water escapes through the big hole and fine water through the little hole?
No hydraulic switch can eliminate the delay in the brake lights coming on. The switch can only operate when there is pressure in the master cylinder and when there is pressure the brakes are already on.
Hi, bumping up an old thread. Did anyone come up with a solution to this? I have the same problem. Brake lights only come on when making a full stop, not when slowing. This is my thread with the full details and pics of the brake switches from VWH and GSF. http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/bleeding-brakes-idiot-guide-please.75318/page-3#post-1408067 Thanks for your help, in advance
Actually I seemed to sort the issue by topping up the brake fluid. The theory being that the switch works on pressure so more fluid more pressure. Seems to be ok at the moment.
A bit low wouldn’t be low enough; the reservoir would need to be empty and the brakes inoperative. Adding fluid did not solve the problem, it was something else. The pressure to operate the hydraulic switch comes from your foot pressing the pedal. Maybe you’ve been working out and you pressed the pedal harder than usual.
I had exactly the same issue and it was solved by 2 new 3 pin brake light switches. Ultimately they work by pressure and if your brakes are bled, working and stopping the van and the switch only works when very strong pressure is applied then it has got to be the switch. Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
Yeap, I agree with that, thanks for the reply. Trouble is, both sets of brand new switches leaked (VWH and GSF 'coz i was desperate). One set from between the metal and plastic, and the other set leaked from all over - yes it was torqued up correctly to 14 lbs. So I'm back with the original vw switches - no leaks but no brake lights without hard press.
