Big motor build

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by daisy1, Apr 17, 2019.

  1. It was terrifying initially especially as one of the rocker covers leaked badly!

    We primed it with the plugs out but left the rocker covers on and the oil pump had the purple cam lube applied to it which helped with the priming.
     
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  2. A C35 with 285deg duration is not really what I’d call a ‘nice all rounder’ for a bus but the capacity will help it pull until the cam starts to work. Looks like you’ve gone for BHP rather than low rev torque. What carbs and vent sizes do you have?

    Nice engine and it’s interesting to see the differences between your 2332cc Type 1 and my 2316cc type 4.
     
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  3. Sorry for the delay, had carb issue.........being I couldn’t afford carbs but here now and on!

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]

    Got it running tonight on almost the first attempt and did my cam burn which I would upload a vid if I could work it out! Any tips welcome on how to upload on the app!

    Got a couple of leaks from some of the cylinder shims so going to rip it down and reseal them with silicon sealant and think it’ll be sound.

    Basic timing, valve and carb adjustments need some work but even with the rough set up the throttle response is insane can’t wait to get it in and drive it!


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  4. Don’t use silicone sealant!

    What size vents are you using?
     
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  5. Looking good mate. Saw your vids on Facebook somewhere, sounding good! Nothing quite as exciting as starting up an engine for the first time!
     
  6. Terrifying.......terrifying is the word!
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  7. 34mm. Any recommendations on what I should use?


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  8. Looking good. Enjoy it.

    Glad to see you have velocity stacks on your carbs, i didn't and a few years later a filter stud broke and fell into the carb. It jammed the carb open so i couldn't stop accelerating on the m1!. When i stopped it fell into the engine causing a bit oof damage.

    My filter king is in the same place as yours, but is bettter mounted on something that doesn't vibrate.

    Mine was previously bolted on to a bit of the engine bay near the leisure battery
     
  9. 34mm vents should make plenty of bhp, I use 30mm in IDF 40 carbs but my engine is built more for low down torque, yours will make its torque at much higher revs and will make more bhp.

    For cylinder base sealant I use Permatex #80011, Elring Curil T would be fine and there are several others that work. Apply the minimum amount, if you have a leak it’s not clean enough or there is a defect in the surfaces.
     
  10. Going to give it a go with 34s and can always adjust.

    My aim has been to keep the revs up to try and keep it cool so will see how it goes. I’m sure they will be an element of the evolution with the motor as I go.

    How about the elring dirko? Seams to have a good temp range


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  11. 34mm vents will work fine and with your engine spec you could probably go larger - if the valves are big enough.
    Elring Dirco is a silicone sealant; it would work on the cylinder base but if any of it breaks off and blocks an oil passage you’ll wish you’d used something else. I wouldn’t use silicone anywhere on an engine.
     
    daisy1 likes this.
  12. Cool beans


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  13. What’s the best options for the oil and fuel breathers? Used to run them both into the filters but don’t want to drill holes in these new ones. Was going to put a small filter on the oil but can’t decide what to do with the fuel. Any ideas?


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  14. Drill and tap the filter tops and run the fuel tank breather into one and the crankcase breather into the other. A big type 1 engine has a lot of oil laden air rushing from one end of the crankcase to the other and a small filter on the end of the crankcase breather is a complete waste of time - it will fill with oil and make a mess.
     
  15. These are the breathers on mine; it’s a type 4 engine but the carbs and filters are similar to yours.

    IMG_6723 (Medium).JPG
     
    daisy1 likes this.
  16. Yeah that’s what I had before, just didn’t want to drill holes in my nice new filters!


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  17. You might not want to but you need to.:D
     
  18. So motor is in and running, no brakes yet so not driven in anger but think it’s gona be great! Only problem is I have noticed I’ve still got a small leak from the barrels why am I struggling to get these sealed!! I know it’s a real small landing surface between the barrels and the case but this is ridiculous! Got three shims under the barrels and wonder if I might be better getting one shim for each barrel machines to suit?


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  19. You’ve stretched a little engine a long way and the sealing face is narrow and with three shims there are plenty of leak paths; one shim per cylinder would be better. And you may find you need one side of the engine to have a slightly thicker shim for the same CR.
     

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