Look at the part pics on sites that sell them and look at what you have left. It's quite straightforward + there are lots of pics on resto threads on here as you know.
Yeah I had a look on JK and Schofields first but their pics only show it face on, not in profile so its hard to see how its shaped. I'll start trawling through resto threads then lol
Well that was a waste of an afternoon! made up a repair panel, but there is so much weld on the sill lip from the belly pans I couldnt get it to sit flat against the lip, even clamped in place, there was a gap of a couple of mm meaning I couldnt get clean tidy welds....just messy looking fat ones lol, top end didnt fair much better......kept blowing through and no matter what I tried it still looks a mess.... its so bad im too embarassed to post pics hahaha could grind it back, plaster it in underseal and be done with it but im debating chopping it all out and starting again tbh. The other issue is i cant get the bus high enough to work comfortably In a position where I can properly see the weld pool as I go, so I keep straying off the join. Still got some issues with my migs wire feed too so all in all its been a bit of a washout
take at look at my thread, just recently changed the inner sills and repaired the strengtheners may help you out.
Looks good! id give my first born son for that rollover jig right now lol Gonna have another crack at it now.....think i'll chop out yesterdays clusterf**k and start over with a fresh head on
Panel fabbed Using these Which has taken hours and convinced me I need to Ivest in some decent metalworking hammers and dollys lol Just got to clean everything up and drill some holes to spot it in place then its round two
Well, fail number 2. got the fold along the sill tacked in ok, but cant get a tight enough join along the top to get it tacked in place.....so it still looks a shocker. Thankfully my wire reel birdsnested and forced me to admit defeat, as I was at the point of losing my rag and smashing it up lol Really have no idea how to sort this out now, and whats left of the inner isnt gonna stand cutting out again So im a bit stumped
Yeah, problem is that like a dumbass I took it up to the top of the sill and its too tight to get a decent hammering to lol gonna have to invest in a pick hammer as I think thats the only thing that'll get up in there. Just out of interest, is it possible to remove the outer and middle, do the inner and then work my way back out without having to cut out the cargo floor? I know this would mean taking out the interior floor etc
Middle in first then inside one then outer is generally the most straightforward though no reason why not as far as I can see.
I just did mine. Took them all out by drilling through spot welds from inside cargo floor, then using those holes to plug weld new ones in.
On the subject of belly pans, I've welded captive nuts into my sills so that I can put removable ones back on. Will have to buy new ones as the old ones fell apart in.my hands!
Decision made.....gonna tackle it properly and cut the lot out, if for no other reason than it'l. be easier to weld than lying on my back with an outrigger brushing the tip of my nose! lol ive priced up the bits from the schofield site....about 120 per side so not too bad for a proper job that wont need revisiting for a few years I guess
Originally they were bolted on approx 16 captivated nuts ...very unwise to weld them up as i think there is a long brake pipe under there , so sooner or later it will have to come off.
Exactly my thinking. Although a bit of a drama/faff, you end up with completely rust free new sills you can pump full of wax and not have to worry about again.
You are allowed to jack it up, though I know what you mean - 8 hours of trunk curls is no fun. To do the job properly and easily it's best to cut off the bottom 4" or so of the front part of the rear arch. I hope you've considered your patina.
