Battery Low Voltage Disconnect Protection

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Zoedanbus, Aug 9, 2020.

  1. What do you peeps reckon? Waste of time or worth it to protect the LB?

    JENOR XH-M609 12-36V Battery Low Voltage Disconnect Protection Module DC Output https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S2FMMZW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_PidmFb4HXCKYX

    Thought I could plumb it in to prevent the Fridge draining too much energy from the battery when I’m being too lazy to monitor everything.

    Or is there a better quality product on the market that is just as easy to use?

    cheers

    Dan
     

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  2. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Its an interesting idea but it draws about 0.1 amps to do its job.

    It will do exactly what you need and can handle the drain of even an absorbtion fridge or 7 amps.


    So it will flatten the battery by itself in a few weeks if its left connected to the battery.

    This is because it has a relay that remains powered all the time the output is on. Hopefully the seven segment LEDs turn off too.

    My 20 amp rated epEver Tracer solar charge controller controls its 20 amp rated load output with a low voltage battery disconnect.
    It uses a solid state switch so it uses less power to achieve the result.
    So I do not need an extra switch to discoonect the battery at low voltage. My inverter also switches off at low battery .


    Look on eBay at e.g. "PT20 Alfatronix 12/24v 20 Amp Low Voltage Disconnect" for a solid state solution that only uses 2mA or basically nothing compared with the batteries self discharge.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
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  3. Didn’t think about that. The draw during standby. Thank u!
     
  4. .1 A = 10MA? So much more efficient. This is just down to the different hardware in use? Could the LED just be disconnected to reduce the power usage? Or does the LED perform part of the functional circuit?
     
  5. 10mA = 0.010A
     
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  6. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The main current drain of something like the first unit will be the relay. If it used an LCD panel or an OLED display it would be more economical too.

    Plus the fact that because the first unit described works between 36 volts and 12 volts, it has a stepdown powersupply for the 5 volt relay . Which is not going to be 100% efficient.

    If it only worked on 12 volts, a specific 12 volt relay coil could be used, this would be more efficient.

    And the Alfatronix bunch are in Poole. So there will be less issue with fake parts.
     
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