No point rebuilding if you have end float in the bottom end. I would be going the Mahle over AA. I have seen examples off AA not being round. They are cheaper for a reason
AA barrels and pistons fitted 7 years and approx 60k miles ago - not a problem. (**Hugs tree....**) Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
AA pistons and cylinders are used by the VW Engine Company, with EMPI heads and an Autolinea aluminium case for their " new " engines. They do reuse the original forged VW cranks, connecting rods and forged flywheels , everything else is new. When I went to buy replacement pistons and cylinders recently for my 1641, at the time Mahle were unavailable so it had to be AA again.
I don't read the whole story, but build what your guts want. This way, you will not be disapointed, but by yourself I have been in the same situation as you, reading endlessly forum topics about engine building, heads porting, camshaft design... To end up even more lost than before . I have now decided to stick with my ideas, because whatever you will choose, somebody will tell you is not the best choice . First, make a true down to earth budget. Add 20% to the budget... Find a machinist that is able to do the machining requested to build your engine. (Line boring, heads cutting, case spot facing ...). It is important. Buy as much parts as you can in once. This way, you can still ask for a discount, if you buy in a true shop, and you will not be able to change your mind anymore when all those nice parts are sitting on your garage floor. Buy some decent tools to build it. Torque wrench, micrometer, dial mic, an inside mic is a good addition but more tricky to use, plastigage could replace it. I would advice you to rebuild a stocker first, a 1200/1300 as they are still easy and cheap to find, it is the best way to learn and much cheaper if it fails. Technical VW bulletin have all the answer you need for specs. Good luck
Good advice^. Make up your own mind, the more comments you read the more confused you will become, but if you can’t decide what to do, chose one person you think knows what they are doing and listen to them. Everyone has a different opinion, some right, some wrong and some it doesn’t matter either way. Forged pistons are unnecessary for ordinary engines and the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. Forged are stronger but softer, and depending on the grade of alloy used can have a high rate of expansion and suffer from ring groove, skirt and pin bore wear. The advantage is they resist detonation; good for high performance engines, forced induction and NOS injection. Although I have never used them, from what I have read AA pistons are pretty good quality these days and I would not avoid using them.
This is all well and good but the OP's goal is to get this temporary engine functioning pronto and go camping.
It is becoming a bit of a well known fact that I've had a few personal issues that involve me buying engines and hoarding them in my garage. My 1641 is on his very very best personal behaviour because of my reinforcements of spare motors. That type 1 1776 that Is what I think Para is referring too should and will stay as my back up. The type 4, 2 litre jobby could be rehomed if anyone fancies him. He's been in the garage for quite a while now and I doubt if Ill ever get round to re purposing that one into my early, and I dont think I really want to either. supposed to be fantabulous but I'm realistic and will do a deal on it. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, DON'T let me buy any more, or gearboxes.
