Hi chums, the battery charging light in the dash stays on after I start my bus and for a good 10 to 20 seconds whilst I gently rev the engine. It then goes out and stays out. The other thing is that the charging light very faintly glows on and off when the indicators are flashing. My bus lives on a C-Tek trickle charger when stored so it starts fine but I am a it worried that it charging as strongly as it might so I could get problems on longer trips. Advice/ideas appreciated
Could be the alternator diode pack . Run through the workshop manual diagnostics for the full circuit incl, all the contacts. Easy to get rebuilt by specialist or buy pattern replacement . Other more mech types may know better..?
First, check that you are charging properly: start engine, wait for light to go out. Voltage on batt should be 13.5 - 14.5V. If it's ok, check the wiring to the alt light output on the alternator (single thin lead). Clean it and tighten it up. if you're keen, check the wiring to the alt light bulb holder on the dash. Sounds like you're charging ok, just not enough current through the alternator warning bulb to get the alternator going (hence the delay), so I'd suspect ageing wiring. This'll cause glowy-alt-light syndrome as well. PS If you want to prove the point, get a small bulb similar to the alt light and connect two leads to it. In the engine compartment, connect one to battery +ve, the other to the alt light output. The bulb should go out as soon as you start the engine, betya.
I have exactly the same symptoms. I was contacting Peter Good (Volksgoods) about a starter motor system asked about it at the same time. Here's his reply; Hi Karl, The description of the alternator ‘fault’ you describe is nothing to be concerned about. It is most likely due to a slightly larger air-gap between the stator and rotor, the two major wound components inside the alternator. The fault is known as a ‘high cut speed.’ Other than the obvious fact you have dip the throttle to get the alternator to start up, it is not in any way detrimental. Changing the regulator will in no way affect the problem. The only external thing that could be influencing the condition is to ensure the gen warning bulb in the speedo is the correct value; that is 12-volts and either 2 or 3 watt. Peter Good VOLKSGOODS 48 Laburnum Drive Cherry Willingham LINCOLN LN3 4AR England UK Tel 01522 751 941 M 07534 986128 International +44 1522 751 941 M +44 7534 986 128 VW Wiring Looms are now available for to order, popular ones are ex-stock, or advance order for selected delivery date. Available again: Dynamo 12 v Regulators – Original Style, German made & Bosch £89 Web www.volksgoods.co.uk Pertronix www.pertronix.com Orders and Salessales@volksgoods.co.uk VW Help & Enquiries peter@volksgoods.co.uk Passionate about VW Electrics HELPLINE 01522 751 941(evenings 7-9pm please)
Thanks guys I will have a play over the weekend and follow all the tips you have given. I will check charging and light. I can also swap for my leisure battery those if the battery,ales a difference if I need to as it's an lee sol one that's designed to enable to be used as a normal battery as well as a leisure one and it's pretty new. If it isn't charging then I guess it's diode pack / recon. cheers again
Check your battery and chassis earth clamps are tight enough first. Put some vaseline around the terminals on the battery. Easy enough to check these first, a loose battery clamp will show these symptoms
If you have a Diode gone bad in the voltage regulator, you will hear whining sound through your radio speakers, the tone rises and falls, following the engine revs. It does not seem to make much difference to the charging performance. Tony
I will check the battery and earth straps again. They were new last year and pretty heavy duty so should be ok. terminals are QR ones so easy to check they are good and tight. Once I have this sorted I can look at the new oil leak my bus has developed. Always something to do on a bus!
I had exactly this symptom. It turned out that the brushes in the alternator had completely worn down and it took a few seconds of high revs to kill the warning light.
Snotty was right! Charges at 14.3V when idling (which is nice) and once I had worked out which is the cable that goes from the voltage regulator to the alternator warning lamp I could see it had been chopped about and had a few potentially dry joins even in the engine bay. I replaced the dodgy section and now the warning light goes off after a second or two when I crank Myrtle over. Job done.....now I wonder what will break next?
If you can fix it as simply and cheaply as that, bring it on! This is what camper owning partly about isn't it, little problems to solve with knowledge rather than cash. Keeps us off the streets.
Blimey. I have the same problem this weekend. Was driving and the G light came on in the dash. Tried starting it last night and the battery is dead. I was expecting the brushes to be at the top of the alternator but could not find them. Don't have a clue where the regulator is either. Need to charge my battery first. Not my engine bay but similar set up. Was expecting the brushes to be where shown but had to leave it because it got cold. Any clues why it is not charging would be great.
Mine's a type 4 which has a separate voltage regulator. You might want to heed Snotty's sage words and check the voltage across the battery when its running as a first step. Mine was good and strong so I knew the alternator was OK.
Cheers @snotty there are two firmly clamped in cables on the top of the alternator. Can't see a loose wire anywhere. I was driving it. Came to a hill and dropped down one gear to climb. When the revs went up the light came came on and has not gone off since.?.. Thanks @Bertiebot but the battery is now totally dead so need to get that charged first.
