1975 Bus Turns but does not start

Take some pics so we can all have a look

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ln6006ab3kcjm7b/AACTh0lGYhGTbf2m-iaS97pha?dl=0
Just follow the link. I couldn't figure how to put the pics in here so did a dropbox haha How about this?... anything you want to see more or I missed?
I know it is a mess in there! Let's just say We will do a lot of cleaning and sorting of wires!

 

Well I've had a look and realize how little I know about FI Type4 engines but I'm sure it will make sense to others

 

haha thanks!! I've actually asked my mechanic to look at the 10th picture. You see a round thing with 2 red connectors... It only has one black wire going to it but on the other side there is a connector but no wire... I asked him if he knew what it was and he had no ideas.... and he worked on quite a few buses... Looks like the PO added this... but, we have no clue what this does. Anyways, it probably doesn't have anything to do with the ignition because the bus worked without the other wire so must be something else.

 

Get someone to crank it over whilst you turn the distributor both ways slightly

 

Try this...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archive...al/AFC_FI_Training_Troubleshooting_Manual.pdf

I’ve also got FI and have had trouble in the past getting my new engine going. There are a few books on the subject if you google!

 

Or this...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archive...l_type_3_4/Fuel_Injection_Manual_Type_3_4.pdf

 

Might be a dopey question, but the PO didn’t fit some kind of immobiliser or kill switch that might have been knocked or accidentally switched on?

 

More here...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/fuelinjection.php

 

Looks like the wiring has been changed by a po. The resistor pack is not mounted where it should be either. I’d be looking for a good second hand wiring harness to replace what you have. It’ll make it easier for fault finding.

 

Get yourself a new foam engine seal too ....it certainly looks like it's seen better days ...thats the foam seal that runs round the perimeter of the engine very important to keep engine cool .

 

Where should the Resistor pack be mounted? And where is it now? hahah I have no idea what it looks like

 

Changing the wire harnesses are in the plans that's for sure but not this summer. Any ideas where I could find some? I'm looking at this: http://www.busdepot.com/211971028l . Any recommendation? Is this one well done? all the wires identified and the right color?

 

Yes There is at least 8 kill switches add in the Bus haha!!! One is only for the electric front seats haha!! The PO was actually an Avionic (airplane electronic tech) and he did a lot of stuff (new sound system, power and heated seats etc...) but most of this has been unpluged this fall so we could rewire that stuff later on... the right way (most was hooked to the starter or coil) We will make one main relay to send all extras there. It won't suck up juice from coil, starter etc.

 

Don’t want to bang on the same thing but pic 1 , there’s a fuse holder with a red and black wire out of one end and nothing on the other? Should be connected to coil positive.That feeds the reverse lights and the dual relay! If it’s not connected you’d get exactly the symptoms you describe, I know I’ve inadvertently done the same myself once.
The resistor pach is dangling just nearby it with a bunch of white wires coming off it, should be fixed to the bulk head near the dual relay!

 

I'll check that first thing when I get home! I've notice that fuse holder a while back but never knew where it goes. Please let it be it!!! if it is, your my hero!hahha
I'll attach the resistor patch where it should go. I'll probably find the holes on the bulkhead Thanks!

 

So I checked the fuse holder and there is two. One that leads to the the double relay (it is connected and the fuse is good) and another one that looks just de same. The resistor patch is now hooked on top of the double relay

 

I took out the 4 spark plugs and made it turn for 30 seconds to see if it was flooded.. I let the plugs dry out, put them back in and tried. Took them out again and they are wet and smell gaz (so we have gaz right?) It burps here and there every 10-15 turns but does not start. I did a compression test on cylinder 3 and got something around 100-105 since I could not tighten the compression gauge right I only used the rubber pipe to screw in.

 

I changed the ignition switch in stearring column and we have the same problem: burps every 10-15 turns but never starts...