Removing Dellorto DRLA carbs

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by simon, Apr 30, 2024.

  1. I'm going to get my carbs rebuilt, so I need to remove them from my T1 engine, having never done this before, will I need to clamp the fuel pipe after the stock petrol pump? Sorry if this is a stupid question. Has anybody got any tips on removing said carbs? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    It is probably a good idea to block off the fuel pipe. A M6 bolt with a shoulder (smooth bit below the head) does quite well, clamping for a long time may damage the hose (may as well replace it anyway)
     
  3. Post a photo/details of your set up and linkage etc. They are all different.

    Block any holes up so things can't fall into your engine.
    Have a magnet handy, but not everything is magnetic.

    I think mine were removed in this order: Filters. Velocity stacks, linkage (watch out for the springs), air filter bases.

    On my T1 engine (twin 40s and CB performance hex bar linkage) there wasn't much room to get a spanner in to remove the carbs from the manifolds, so the carbs and manifolds were removed as one. A special spanner made this easier. I'll find a photo.

    Watch out for the little crush washers on the studs between the manifold and cylinder heads.

    There are loads of tiny bits, so I removed them and put straight into jars with lids.

    I Still managed to lose a tiny crush washer, I knew it couldn't have fallen in to the engine, but I still spent ages searching the engine bay and everywhere. I was very relieved when I found it inside the van (I'd put it down whilst taking a phone call).
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I stopped using washers on my velocity stacks after dropping one down the carb. Unlike you I assumed I'd lost it, put another on, turned the engine - clunk. It was non-magnetic S/S so engine out and off with it's head. PITA never to be repeated I hope.

    Carbs off is very simple with a centre linkage - pop off linkage, remove filters and bases (better access to the nuts) disconnect fuel, 4 nuts, walk the washers up the studs. If it's easier to access the manifold/head nuts take the carbs off c/w manifold.
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  5. 11 mm 6-Point Metric Open-End/ Flare Nut Wrench

    • RXSM11B
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What's that for?
     
  7. easily getting to the brass nut thingys ontop of the manifolds by the spark plugs, if @simon decides to take them off there.
    I think he has the same cb performance linkage as me
     
  8. That may help [​IMG]
     
  9. Possibly for "slim" manifold nuts. M6(?)s with a slimmer nut profile. Got them on mine.

    To stop washers plunging down your carb throats, self-locking M6(?) flange nuts are good. Thruppence on eBay. Then you don't need washers, which will fall down your carbs, making you all sad.
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    M8. Makes sense.
    I thought I'd try it no washers first... that was 8-10 years ago. I'm still trying the idea - so far so good.
    Butterfly nuts and roofing washers on the filter tops.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Here's some photos of what I've got.

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  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You could also consider cutting and welding a ring spanner to make a cranked spanner to reach the front nuts holding the carburettor to the manifold.

    I use such a custom spanner with a 90 degree angle and a 3cm straight section going to the ring for one of the four nuts securing my progressive.
     
  13. Just follow your nose and start removing bits ;). Clamp the fuel pipe on the output of the pump (you will spill whatever fuel is left in the pipework), pull off the "heim" (ball and socket) joints on the throttle/carb linkage, then devise some ingenious means of taking off the nuts holding the carbs on (a "banana spanner" may help getting to the ones at the back). Bit of a pain, but not that difficult. May help if you remove the airfilters to give a bit more working room/visibility.

    Go for it!
     
    F_Pantos likes this.
  14. The magnet-on-a-stick suggestion is a winner, along with stuffing old trainer socks down each of the holes any time you see one open up, try and leave the linkage setup as is, good luck :thumbsup:
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  15. I've had a go and I can't remove the carbs, anybody know of a garage around Leicester I can get the work done?
     
  16. What’s actually stopping you removing them?
     
    snotty and Zed like this.
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    That just means you didn't try hard enough. :D
    I notice you ask this periodically, I'm surprised you haven't found a useful garage after all these years?
     
    matty likes this.
  18. I couldn't get any of my tools onto the nuts holding the manifold to the heads, working in the road don't really help, there's Johnson Autoworks that I've used in the past. Always good to get recommendations.
     
    Zed likes this.
  19. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Fact- there was a tool used to do up the nuts.

    Deduction - you can obtain a tool that can undo the nuts.
     
  20. Can the person rebuilding them help you remove them?
     

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