Yes, I'm stupid enough to want to be removing my engine again.....

Some might argue this should be in restorations, but it's here because I have questions.

I got the van out today with the express intention of dropping the engine, so I can fit my new fanshroud, and get into the engine bay to (finally!!) fit my auto fire extinguisher.

After shopping, the vet, and everything else that happens on a Saturday, I had a couple of hours on it, and I got this far:



I labelled all the electrics before taking them off,



disconnected the battery, and removed the rear tin:



I think it needs a blast and a powdercoat before going back in.

Now, questions:

This is my brake servo vac pipe, complete with non-return valve.



I have undone all the hose clips, and it won't budge. Arrgh. Can anyone suggest anything before I take a knife to the pipe (there is enough slack in it for me to chop a bit off and reattach and it still fit)?

I also have a full flow oil system leading to an external filter, mounted on the passenger side chassis leg:



Obviously the engine isn't going to come out while this is still like this. However, am I better to unbolt the bracket from the chassis leg (therefore not disturbing any of the pipework) or unding the 2 pipes leading to the filter?

This is the main reason I'm taking the engine out - the fanshroud now has 2 holes where the coil used to be. Am I right in assuming that I can get away with just removing the carb and cenre part of the inlet manifolds (by undoign the 2 boots leading to the manifold end pieces) then undoing the alternator strap, unbolting the fan from the fanshroud, then pulling off the fanshroud? I don't really want to get into stripping it down any further than this.



Thanks for reading, and please help?

 

the servo valve will have little steps on it so it grips the pipe, you need to pull really hard or maybe use a small pick to dig under it and squirt some lube under the pipe. this will shift it.
i would not disconnect the oil pipes, too much mess

 

why don`t you pop rivit another piece of metal on over the holes ,this metal you can screw two 10 mill bolts in to put the coil on...

I would never take the engine out for such a small thing...

 

Try warming hose with hot water to make it more pliable, as Aussie says dont disconnect pipes take off the chassis Stu

 

I just read this bit...

This is the main reason I'm taking the engine out - the fanshroud now has 2 holes where the coil used to be



ok ok you win....

btw you can get to the sender without moving the tank...

 

Go for it.
Best thing I ever did was sorting out the engine bay wiring. Amazed that I'd not had a fire with the condition of some of the original wiring. Feel a lot happier now it's all new

 

I knew I had a couple more questions that I forgot about:

1. The engine's still full of oil - can I get away with not draining it before removing? I realise it'll be heavier.

2. I've borrowed my neighbours 2.25 ton jack. Can I stick this in the middle of the rear beam and jack it up with this one jack alone? Or am I better using 2, one on each side?

 

I leave my oil in and I jack where the gearbox is ,my jack is only up half way and still can slip the engine out under the rear valance....

I think there is a picture on Henry as well as the others on show us yours..

 

no. If that case isn't broken its down to lady luck. Jack on the beam

 

It`s always worked for me ,but I can see your point... ;D

 

I'm slightly more organised. I have a length of 6x4 across level with the rear jacking points, trolly jack in the middle. The you can get axle stands under the axle tube. If a van fell on me where I work, nobody would notice.