The inventor negative is connected to the negative on the coil. Thought the white with stripe was earth!!!!
Not sure disappears into the loom, but thought is was earth. I have checked to make sure there is continuity between coil negative and earth.
There shouldn't be continuity between the coil -ve and earth, unless the breakers are closed or your accuspark is triggered. With breakers open/accuspark untriggered, the coil -ve should be up at +12V.
Just took a look at the wiring diagram and the notes, looks like the white with stripe, is green stripe and connects to the test socket.
The positive (red wire) from the Pertronix module should be connected to the +ve on the coil together with the black from the ignition circuit. The negative (black wire)from the Pertronix module should be connected to –ve on the coil. You don’t need the white with stripe. If you’ve connected black from the Pertonix to black from the loom it won’t work and you’ve probably fried the ignition module
Thanks all, will take these comments on board, will probably try again tomorrow night, weather willing.
Finally figured it out. Stupid mistake due to not understanding coil I connected intake manifold heater across the coil. Thinking coil negative same as battery negative. Disconnected and fired right up. Just need to tune at the weekend. Thanks for all your guidance.
We live and learn . The coil doesn't actually need an earth connection to function. The -ve terminal is earthed on-and-off by the breakers/ignition unit to fire the plugs: it hops up and down between 0V and 12V. Anything else connected to it (apart from the input of a tach) will likely stop the sparks. A common fluff is for folk to connect the lead for the reversing lights to it instead of to the coil +ve. Every time they select reverse, their engine stops ...
Now I have it started, took the old girl for a spin, only problem is it seems very lumpy, and when I put my foot down or change gear it splutters and wont pull away smooth, have checked timing and the mixture, but something is not right. Also when I come to a stop the old girl red lights come on and she stops unless I give her some revs. Not sure if its a fault with the dissy as it hasn't been used for a while or of its the carb, injection pump needs adjusting, I also note that I changed out the fuel pump manifold and the new one was a bit thicker than the old.
Hi I'm Interested in your Westy bed and a friend is coming from the isle of white in the morning could you reply to my pm or call me please Thanks David
Both, it basically just cuts out like its low revs, and it might be, when tuning I set revs to 900. Might need a bit more.
Too much precision. 2.8 ohms is 3 ohms - 7% and 3.2 ohms is 3 ohms +7%. I doubt any coil manufacturer would be too worried if the resistance is slightly low as it means the peak current can go a bit higher so the energy of the spark will be a bit higher. What they mean is not to use the high performance coils with very low DC resistance - under 2 ohms , but stock Bosch coils are perfectly OK, because that is what the Pertronix/Accuspark mass market basic units are designed for. I would suspect the Accuspark unit or a poor ignition switch contact and then the coil because you are getting a spark and it is weak. A healthy ignition circuit should be able to give you a belt at a distance of about 2cm from an ignition lead hanging around connected to the firing coil, and your arm should twitch fast enough to smash things.... done it.. Check the voltage on the positive terminal of the coil -the black lead when the engine is cranking - ignition circuits are designed to work down to about 6 volts, but 9 or more volts would be good. It can also be a good idea to swap back to points/condensor as there have been quite a few cases of electronic ignition units failing gradually before complete failure - I have had one go like this. I have also had issues with an Accuspark with a corroded female spade connection from the black wire to the coil - I measured the voltage on the spade, it was good but not a lot was making it to the red wire of the Accuspark on another terminal on the coil. I found this coincidentally at the same time a rocker shaft unbolted itself.. I also saw a case where the little carbon brush in the distributor cap had got chewed up by a wonky brass bit on top of a brand new Bosch rotor arm, and that was causing weaker sparks.
