Hi folks. Got my engine all rebuilt and back in, including alternator upgrade. Tried to start this morning, but won't fire. Think it is getting fuel as there is a slight smell Checked the ignition, found the following. Confirmed connections and voltage to the coil positive side. Removed HT lead and attached to spare plug, and added earth wire. Turned over no spark. Disconnected primary HT lead to distributed and tour ed over whilst moving an earth cable close to the end of the HT lead, has to be very nearly touching to get any form of spark. Have tested coil resistance Bosch Blue 0221119027 Primary resistance 2.8 ohms Secondary resistance 7.8k ohms Has anybody got any thoughts. Carb is set exactly as it came off and Dissy was never removed so Timeing should be as was 7.5 deg. I'm thinking its the coil because of the weak spark.
Suspect everything , especially if changing the alternator took more than a couple of hours or you had the engine out of the bus for any time. What is the voltage on the coil when cranking? If under 6 volts buy a new battery to go with the new alternator. How did you find you needed an alternator. Flat battery ? ... If electronic ignition suspect module. If points check them and suspect the condenser as if that is not present the spark will be weak. Also look around ignition leads and try to pull each end off and replace. Check the lead from the coil to the distributor.
Replaced dynamo with alternator as engine out for top end rebuild, and it is easier to do the alternator whilst it is out, and wanted to upgrade for more stable system. Will check the other items as per your suggestions, thanks.
Hi did you only just upgrade to petronix i.e. Whilst engine was out and had points before? May be dodgy one or timing out if so and make sure unit not fried if connected wrong way around. Hope you get it fixed
The Pertronix module needs a coil with a primary resistance of 3 Ohms and if it’s a Brazilian Bosch blue coil I’d expect the primary resistance to be 3.4 Ohms – are you sure it’s only 2.8 Ohms? And as above, if you’ve changed from points to an electronic module during the engine work you’ll need to re-time the ignition.
I fitted the electronic ignition module last year dome many miles on it. I suspect the coil especially with the low resistance
sometime when you have done engine work etc it just needs a bit of extra help starting ,I remember bumping/towing a 1.8 d escort a mile before it burst into life... I always say" if it worked before it should work again..."
I remember someone (sometimes on here) that overhauled an engine, had trouble starting it so towed it, it still didn’t start but it did stick a rod through the block. If it won’t start on the starter motor there’s something wrong.
If the coil has a primary resistance of 2.8 Ohms and the Pertonix needs a coil with 3.0 Ohms your suspicion that it’s the coil may be correct.
It was diesel and the owner ran it on petrol (by mistake)and it was in a field for a year ,towing and bumping worked for me ,it would not start the conventional way believe me...
Unfortunately no, tried new battery today, bust still won't start, just turned over. Disconnected fuel line to make sure fuel getting to carb, note it is pumping, I'm just not sure if it is enough. When I rebuilt engine replaced pump flange, and noticed new one is a little thicker than the old. It isn't even trying to fire. I just tried to check spark at primary Ht and it seems to be a spark, but again not very strong, unearthed us in a fly lead at about 3mm. Looks like the ignition I have fitted is an accuspark one difficult to check.
did you replace the distributor cap and rotor arm and ignition leads. you seem to have replaced everything else. and did you take the top off the carb to see if fuel in the float bowl and did you do as suggested and put a little fuel in the carb throat and try to start it.
No haven't changed the cap, arm, or leads, as was all working fine before I stripped. Haven't taken carb to bits again as yet, as initial indications, was poor spark. So have been concentrating on that side so far.
Just a thought, can anybody confirm the wiring for me. There are three canbles that enter from the right and are clipped to the fan housing. The way I remember them, and the way I connected. 1 - signal cable for pressure switch. 2 - Black wire to positive of coil 3 - White with a stripe, to negative of coil.
