Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by rob.e, Mar 5, 2014.
They looked superb ....
I have 15" caddy steels on mine now
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Got some tyres, got my 20mm spacers for the rear so quick test fit last night, all looking good:
205 50 17 93XL by Rob E, on Flickr
I went for 205/50 in the end, decided a 215 was overkill.. these are 93xl load rating so spot on for the rear of a wesy.
Also finished heat exchanger swap over, refitted everything and did my valve clearances. Test drive later today, then oil service whist its still warm hopefully.
took some pics last night with the new heritage wheels:
Untitled by Rob E, on Flickr
Untitled by Rob E, on Flickr
Untitled by Rob E, on Flickr
Amazing how much different it looks with the black wheels, completely transforms the whole look of the bus very happy how these turned out, ride quality hardly changes vs. the 16"s i had on previously, still really good. Not much difference in the weight of the steering at low speeds with the new 195 (vs previous 185) fronts either.
I'll pop a for sale ad up for the Zenders at some point, but in the mean time if anyone's interested drop me a pm.
Looks really smart with those rims
Liking it on those wheels
Those wheels are lush what’s the et bore etc?
I have found this set of caddys https://stitchesandsteel.com/products/volkswagen-caddy-oversized-steel-wheels
They are 7x17 et43, however I have 20mm spacers on the rear (making effectively et23) centre bore is too small for the front so machined from original 57 to 66.6mm to clear the grease cap. Oh, and your stock length studs won’t be long enough - I have longer ones already fitted on my bus from previous wheel projects.
those caddy 17” steels look great. Bore will be too small for a bay so will need opening up, only the fronts though. Pcd and offset should be fine but you may need a spacer on the rear esp if you have adjustable spring plates as the adjuster mechanism reduces your clearance. You’ll need longer studs too
Annoyingly the new heat exchangers are just a smidge bigger than the originals, which means the super-tight clearance i had between exhaust and tow bar is now wafer thin when the engine is cold, and non-existent when its hot
I contemplated elongating the mounting holes in the bar but tbh the bus never gets used for towing, so much better solution for now is just to take the tow bar off.
tow bar removal by Rob E, on Flickr
Looks much nicer without too, as the bumper sits nice and close to the body:
rear bumper back on without the tow bar by Rob E, on Flickr
Its also saved me about 15kg in weight i didn't need to be carting around
I've been running my anti roll bar on the front above the arm to give more ground clearance - only problem with doing that is that it makes it virtually impossible to fit the proper vw clamp - i'd been using a t-clamp as a temporary measure; seems to work but looks a bit bodged if i'm honest.
I took the bar off this week for a coat of hammerite as it was looking a little tatty - whilst it was off i experimented with how it would sit either above or below the trailing arm. Mounted above with the kink pointing down as i'd had it seems to not give any greater ground clearance vs. mouting below (as vw intended) with the kink going up so that's how i re-fitted it.
Also means i can now revert back to using proper vw clamps. These are a challenge to get on - i used a woodworking g-clamp with some grooves cut into it to pull the clamp together.
arb clamp by Rob E, on Flickr
Also got me some bilstein dampers from Type 2 Detectives. I've run bilsteins on several other vehicles in the past and been very impressed with them. T2D have worked with bilstein to develop a specific damper for our old buses.. I've had KYBs on the front since i got the french slammer beam - they're ok but i still find them a bit too floaty for my tastes. I've heard good things about these bilsteins so i'm hoping they work well.
T2D bilsteins by Rob E, on Flickr
T2D Bilsteins by Rob E, on Flickr
I'll get out for a test drive later and update with how they feel on the road.
interested to what you think about the new shocks.
Took my bus down to Dan at R3 garage services yesterday to get rear main seal replaced.
Whilst i was under the bus recently doing my heat exchangers i'd been doing my best to get all of the little oil leaks resolved; biggest issue was the dipstick bellows (new "viton" goes on easy when the h/ex is out of the way) plus i had some leakage from one rocker gasket (remove both sides, proper clean up to a nice mating surface, refit with new cork seals) and one pushrod tube (seems resolved after i rotated the tube). After some test drives it was clear that i still had a leak from the engine/gearbox join area so most likely rear seal.
I don't have the tools or sufficient skills for a diy engine removal so booked in with R3. Dan did a great job - engine out, seal replaced and back in within a few hrs.
I've driven about 100 miles or so since the seal went in, just checked under the bus now in the garage (cleaned the floor in preparation) and there are no drips
rear main seal replacement by Rob E, on Flickr
Rear main seal by Rob E, on Flickr
I've done some proper drives now with the Bilsteins on:
They are noticeably stiffer than the KYB's but not harsh or jarring. The weight of the bus feels well controlled. On dips where the bus would previously compress the suspension fully on the KYBs it managing to reduce the movement and stop any risk of bottoming out.
Although firmer than the KYB's they are not uncomfortable. Yes you can feel the road and the bus feels "tied down" but they are not so stiff that you get tired on a long trip. Bear in mind i've recently put 17" wheels on the bus so if you are on stock wheels (or basically anything with a bigger sidewall) they are going to be more comfortable than my bus.
To sum up; if you like the soft floaty disconnected feel you get on a stock bus at stock height on balloon tyres they these probably aren't for you. If you like your vehicles to be well damped and controlled then you'll love these. Also, if you've gone lower and you have issues with your front tyre contacting the arch then these will be beneficial.
@grandmst how are you getting on with yours?
@rob.e if im honest i haven't been out it in it yet that's a job for a night this week.
But from your description it sounds like a well worth upgrade
Sounds like an interesting alternative to what’s usually specced for our buses.
I found the KYB gas-a-just (no idea why they chose that name since they’re not adjustable) to be so similar to the standard Sachs ones to make very little difference.
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KYB make another type, also not adjustable, that's firmer. GR2 ???
No I think it’s the other way around Steve. Gr2 (now called excelG) is OE replacement spec twin tube, where the gas-a-just are a (better) monotube design.
I remember taking some kyb off one of mine because the ride was rattly. I replaced with stock and was no different. Perhaps they were GR2.
I popped over to my first "meet" of the year on Sunday with a buddy of mine, socially distanced of course. "Silverstone Social" is a great informal group who organise some very relaxed meets near to me, this one was at Turweston Aerodrome. Very nice eclectic mix of cars, classic and modern if its interesting.
Silverstone Social July 2020 Marek Jedrzejewski by Rob E, on Flickr
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