Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by rob.e, Mar 5, 2014.
Still enjoying them .!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking good Rob, thanks for the useful info on the French Slammer set up and various wheel specs. I've just picked up their kit myself
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Just back from a few nights away with the kids in Dorset.
A bit under 400 miles over 3 days, only one v minor issue easily resolved, otherwise a faultless trip
pic is Chesil Beach.
nice to get back to some proper camping, 2020 was just rubbish. We’re away again this weekend @ Shuttleworth.
Shuttleworth air show was awesome, watching from the bus also makes it fun as you have access to all your food, drinks and blankets etc as it gets dark. Tuned in to the commentary on the radio too.. lovely. We were the only bay.
fitted my rear Bilsteins. I’ve now got bilsteins front and rear. Look how lovely and yellow they are
Not driven with them on yet but I’ll have a good run out to test them tomorrow.
Also tweaked up my steering box a tad. It was feeling a bit slack in the crosswind on the way back from Shuttleworth last weekend. This is the og low miles box I fitted last year, not surprised it needed adjustment as I just threw it on as it was.. lock nut was seized but came loose with copious drenching in plusgas followed up with a quick blast with the blowtorch
just need to check the valves tomorrow then we’re ready for a weeks camping in snowdonia.
Carb jetting: I've tweaked the jetting in my weber ict carbs a little in the last few weeks
Out of the box (from eurocarb) these are shipped new with 145 mains and 55 idles, with 160 airs.
WayoutWestie recommends (and fitted in to mine) : 165 mains, 185 airs, 55 idles, 150 needle jets and F6 emulsions.
Those changes made a big difference as i've said earlier on this thread. No perfect though, as i was still finding that on long motoway/ A road hills, full (or nearly) full throttle for a long-ish period it would bog and feel like it was overfuelling /rich.
After talking to a few others with ict's on a 2.0 i've gone down to a slightly smaller set of mains and airs, now running 155 mains. 175 airs.
Since the change i've prob done 500 miles or so, and its not bogging on long hills any more, doesn't feel any slower than before and maybe using a tad less fuel?
Taking my carbs apart and replacing the jets is something i would have never attempted previously but the longer i have the bus my confidence grows. V satisfying to make a change and see the improvement (coupled with the relief of getting it all back together, having nothing left over and not dropping anything down the throat of the carb )
Next step i'd like to get a sensor into the exhaust and an AFR gauge so i can properly see what's going on - i think i may need to go down again on the jets but i'll hold off making any further changes until i get the gauge sorted.
Good to hear the feedback on wayoutwestie suggested set up. Keep us posted as I experienced similar issues as you described when driving the bus for the first time since doing the ICT swap. I def need to have another go at balancing them first.
Back home today after our big trip around Snowdonia. Awesome scenery and great camping.
Drove up through dinas mawddwy pass, high, steep but we kept going- 2nd gear at the top..
Cefn Coed campsite nr dolgellau. What a fab site. As close as you can get to wild camping. No phone signal or WiFi, just a toilet and water straight from off the mountain. Each pitch is hidden in the woods in its own little clearing. Path down to the Mawddach Estuary, lots of great hiking and a cycle path, ice cold mountain streams to paddle in.. campfires and stargazing.
Really glad I put the bilsteins on the back - it previously felt a bit like the front and rear of the bus were reacting differently to bumps.. with matching dampers front and rear now it feels much better. More consistent and balanced.
Minor hiccup the day before we left.. I’d always had my two dash warning lights come on with the ignition as they should, but they were always very faint. Day before we left though I lost the oil pressure warning light altogether - eek. Rather than postpone the trip I took a calculated risk, ordered some parts and decided to go anyway.
just been fiddling with it now and replaced both bulb holders, added new bulbs.. swore at it a bit until I worked out how to refit - but, two good bright lights now- all sorted.
I also made a set of straps so I can use my Westfalia dash table outside - just needed some “footman loops” added underneath, some hooks for the door top / gutter. Pleased how this turned out. I think the little table will actually get more use this way than as a dash table tbh.
Some updates on my continued fettling activities:
Thanks to @Mark Darby 's group buy i now have a seal around the alternator. Didn't know i was missing one until Mark started his thread but obvious once you see on in place. Any big gap where cooling air could leak means that VW's ram-air concept of loading up the engine bay with positive air pressure through the side scoops, then sucking it all through the the engine fan is going to be impacted.
I also bought and fitted the little cover that goes over the hex adjustment screw for tightening up the alternator, as this would also be a source of air leakage, only £9 from jk, p/n: 021-119-295.
Alternator seal is fitted by Rob E, on Flickr
I've also got hold of some original vw 78 california spec "triangle flange" heat exchangers. My originals were rusted out and i replaced them with some aftermarket jobbies early last year. They do work, but don't put out as much heat as originals hence why i tracked down this set - they are from a breaker in california - shipping wasn't cheap but he didn't want much for them so overall still a lot less than buying some new repro's that wont work as well.
As expected they look really bad initially, but a few hours with the wire brush in the drill and you start to see that its just caked on mud/ underseal and surface rust. Here's the important marker showing they are original vw parts:
Second h/ex refurbishment oem Vw by Rob E, on Flickr
Done the lhs one, rhs still in progress (ran out of primer):
Untitled by Rob E, on Flickr
RHS one had a slightly loose shroud which i fixed up with some JB weld around the joints - not used this before but it looks like its done the job. I'm trying out rustoleum paints on these, primer is the "direct to rust anti corrosion" grey. Top coat i've gone for "hard hat" anthracite.
And there's more.. i've added a small section to the exhaust to be able to have an O2 sensor in there, hooked up to my new PE wideband bluetooth kit. This allows you to monitor air fuel ratio information on your phone via bluetooth - no need to run a wire to the dash and mount a gauge. I'm thinking this is something i'm going to use to measure / setup then take off - i dont' see the need to have a permanently mounted AF gauge. I'm hoping the O2 sensor will be ok there - there's nowhere else to mount it nearer to the motor unfortunately with this exhaust design - hopefully it'll work from there.
O2 Sensor by Rob E, on Flickr
The device just needs switched 12v supply and a ground and that's it. Download the app on your phone and you're good to go. I've mounted this on the blanking plate i made to cover the hole where the original vw ECU would have been (my bus was originally Fuel Injected).
PE Bluetooth Wideband O2 Sensor by Rob E, on Flickr
Not tested this out yet but will have some test runs with it one evening this week i expect. I made some minor changes to jet sizes on my webers last month which seemed to improve things but with the sensor i hopefully can do this with a bit more science and not rely just on guesswork and how it feels. The PE sensor is not the cheapest out there but i thought it was worth it for ease of installation - plus i'm thinking once i'm done/set up it would be something that i could sell on? As you can see, both the O2 sensor and the module are mounted deliberately in a way that makes them easily removable/ no new holes drilled etc.
Are your current heat riser pipes, at the front end from the h/exs to the control pods, the right shape? Oval/round ends? I think they're different to ours.
I keep the AFR gauge - it can be informative and useful - like just before it judders to a halt was it reading lean (no fuel/no spark) or rich (too much fuel) ?
They're oval at the heat exchanger, same as the one's i have on. The riser pipe is oval at the bottom and round at the top where it meets the control pod. I think there are several different types, need to be careful to get the right ones. I've been looking on thesamba for some time to get the right type in good shape being sold by someone who's willing to ship them, at a sensible price etc.
I might just happen to have a set of freshly powder coated (in anthracite) US spec pipes
So about a year ago my bro sent me a pic of an exhaust that had popped up local to him, listed as “bay fitment” but the seller was moving it on ‘cos it wouldn’t fit his euro heat exchangers. Luckily my brother remembered a conversation we’d had some time back about mine having triangle flanges.. long story short he picked this up for buttons. Appears to be custom made full stainless system. Result.
I test fitted it with my newly refurbished og heat exchangers, fits perfectly.
no idea if it’s any good, but looks well made and twin centre exits got to be worth some placebo horsepowers
Separate names with a comma.