Pic 2 is looking back at rear cross member showing duct Pic 3 is duct up through floor Pic 4 is duct coming through crossmember looking from behind
@vanorak, So further to more grovelling around under the bus Monday evening with @Dicky , we've decided that: 1) the OG vent in pic 1 will be hot air in. 2) a new hole will be cut to the right of the duct & a 90' mild steel duct welded/sealed in for cool air return. like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280699898190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 3) The smaller hole on the right in the x member next to the existing duct in pic 2 will be enlarged to take the new tube & the X member strengthened underneath if it's felt necessary. This done, both ducts will offer up exactly with the Propex in/out & flexy connecting tubes will only be about 20cm or so for max efficiency. Lagged as well! 4) the Westy feed duct from the walk through vent will be blocked. This will mean better walk through heat from the OG main tube when in motion. 4) cool air return ducting will be taken along the inside of the bed box, up into the kitchen cabinet & vented at a level just below the lower edge of the side window. I got this reply from Propex yesterday which may answer some questions you had in a previous thread: " Hello Neil, The temperature of the exhaust spigot should not get to more than 150 degrees C. The metalwork of the heater will not get hot at all. Re-circulated air is, as you rightly surmise, best if it is warmer as it makes the heater more efficient, so normally you would try to pull the air in from the inside of the vehicle as the air being drawn in will be continually rising as the temp inside rises, this also avoids introducing more moisture from the outside. As for a maximum temperature I'm not sure really but I would suggest no more than 15 - 18 degrees...... I hope this helps......... Regards Richard " So we'll lag the loom tube where the exhaust port exits. & as we'd all surmised, cool air return-in needs to be warm but not too warm. Ideal scenario is warm air-in vent low & cool air return-in about 1/2 way up the bus. I occurs to me that it wouldn't be hard for someone with skills I don't have to knock up a twin pipe manifold with a flange & 90' mandrel bend that can be be bolted into the floor under the bed base for those vans that don't have the late Westy affair. I know @zed knocked up a neat manifold from some old exhaust components when he installed his Eber. In this case, it is not necessary to touch the existing heating ducting at all, other than to move the centre tube across for access when installing the box. & the only extra component a bod would need would be the manifold Simple I will write up the actual HS2211 unit instal when we get round to it & link it to the Chip resto thread so at least I can find it.....
Cheers @theBusmonkey . Just a thought but where your "new fitting goes through the floor then can this have another 90 degree fitting (not welded though) going off for the return air so you dont have to get a tight bend on the flexible pipe?
Good idea. It would exit the triangular deflector plate neatly & set the tube up for the run along the bed base
This install is sooooo simple it beggars belief. Still a bit of work and if youve got the right bus but could be copied for other buses with a bit more work but I think its going in the best place possible. External ducting is minimised and its in a protected position!
Sounds like you've sussed it. Should make for a neat install, without taking up too much space...Interesting you should mention a manifold to route up into the bus...Here's what I'm working on (amongst other things) An insulated silencer box, for both heated and recirculated air, that mounts directly onto the inlet/outlet...hot air passes out through a 'straight thru' type silencer, recirculated enters via a convoluted baffle....as the recirc. air runs along side the hot air silencer, it picks up the radiant heat from the insulation, killing two birds with one stone....so obvious, I didn't see it at first....anyway, will like to hear how your set-up works in practice.....fan noise should be minimal, especially if you mount the heater unit on soft rubber feet inside an enclosure....@Dicky was impressed with the simplicity of this as an install.....that tells a story Thanks for the pics.....did you need to replenish your stock of Tea bags?
hehe. Good suggestion on vibration. I'll mount the heater box through thick rubber washers/gasket. Pictures only when it come to fitting as I do go on a bit... Oh & regarding the beverages, I only drink coffee & our tea must be carp 'coz he only had 2 cups. And I'd been to the local grocery specially to get bags in!
Maybe he was standing on ceremony, so to speak.... http://www.gelmec.co.uk/product209.php?url=1&page=229&ty=23&gr=23&fg=134.....something along these lines for mounting
I was on me best tea drinkin behaviour tbh!!!! Reminds me I must get that compact sent off to propex for refurb! You any further on an enclosure for the heater @vanorak
Not yet....it's built in my mind, but not in reality....been tapping manifolds and fettling carb linkage for the prog...got quoted £31 for a 1/8th NPT tap from Brabby's...I politely told him to f*ck off, he politely responded by giving me The finger....gotta love that shop
Thats about what I got quoted. Use a parallel tap but dont wind it in fully there is a lead on the thread ie it tapers anyway. I used BSP I think. Practice it first though to check!
just found one on fleabay for a tenner buy it now.... I can live with that..... thought about it, but thinking as it's pretty critical, may as well stump up...I'd only spend it on roll ups.... (actually, i'll still spend it on roll ups anyway...bad example)
Cool-air return pipework arrived this morning: Ready to be cut to length & installed. 57mm coz. I could only find 60mm in stainless.
What size is the truma stuff? Found a good supplier for hose reducers, inserts etc....let me know if you need something odd
Ratzakli, ! That baby will sit next to the OG vent in @Dicky pic 1 above. The OG heater duct supplied by Propex is 60mm ID, 65mm OD. It push fits into the supplied vents but I wanted to seal it onto the metal bends for extra security. The Westy vent is about 55 to 57 mm so they should sit well together. As we suggested, two of these pipes side by side as a manifold would be all you'd need extra for a retro fit underslung feeding into the bed base. Elegant
