That's a pity, yes you really need those. What about the head banger hanger brackets? Maybe you can get the seller to have a look for these missing brackets? The interior looks pretty good, I don't see any speaker holes for example.
Yes, from misuse and forcing it after it started not to work properly, very common. The pin/stud is bent too. All fixable if you take your time. When it works properly it doesn't really get stressed, it's when say a spring breaks and the catch gets caught in the wrong place that it gets bent. Shame really but people tend to force things rather than figure them out.
I've just had a quick flick through NLAs current offerings as I'd seen their hinge set a few weeks ago... https://nlavw.com/home/629-t2-early-bay-rock-and-roll-hinges-pair.html They do metal reinforcing plates but not the under bed support arms yet. Maybe worth a call to Adam to see if its a thing on their radar
Yes luckily most of the 90 degree brackets are still attached to all the furniture. The sink unit has the two M6 bolts that go into the bulkhead. The wardrobe has the holes but the bolts that go into the bulk head are missing. Luckily I also have the angle support bar that goes between the RR bed and the wardrobe to support the side seat. Are the wardrobe, sink unit and side seat supposed to be sitting on plywood base on the cargo floor then or are the L brackets supposed to screw directly into the metal floor? It seems strange that the RR bed sits directly on the metal floor but the other units sit on plywood. Also I would imagine the plywood would have to be the right thickness or the RR bed won't nicely align and bolt to the rest?
I am not sure I follow you on this. Are you saying the westfalia vans have a ply lining on the roof instead of the soft headlining and that this seals up against the open curved top of the head locker. Or is my hea locker missing a wood covering on the top curved side that mates to the roof?
Yes overall the units are actually in quite good condition, the lower edges on some of them have veneer chipped and other smal issues but it hasn't been cut up for speakers or messed about with too much. I am probably going to avoid cutting speaker holes as it seems such a shame. The head banger unit doesn't seem to have any holes where bolts go through other than some tiny holes at the back that look like nail holes. I see that Just Kampers sells the brackets for the head locker and says that unless it is the Berlin model then you need four of the brackets. I bought most of the interior in 2007 and the sink unit in 2010. When I bought the interior it was already removed and dismantled sitting amongst loads of other bits in the back of the van. Yes annoying that I havve to buy the seat base rests, there seems to be very little westfalia stuff for sale anywhere. Is the seat base and back just plywood, and is there somewhere in particular that does good foam to put on them?
Yes I came across these earlier today when trying to find westfalia hinges to get hold of the lower supports. As you say it is probably worth me giving a call Monday to see if they are making them or are able to soon. Could you post the link for the metal reinfocing plates so that I can see what these are and if I need them. I find it interesting/strange that the hinges being sold are only for 3/4 rock and roll bed not full width.
Only the bed sits on the metal as it has it's own ply floor built in. Everything else sits on a ply floor and screws to that. IIRC the front panel, when you get it assembled is a ply floor thickness short at the bottom so you tuck your main ply floor under the front panel. Westfalia fixed the ply down with screws up from under the van. Not all that many either, maybe half a dozen. Yes they all had ply roofs, nothing missing on your rear cupboard... do you have a soft head lining? Oops. It will probably work out ok... Yep, about 5 or 6 small c/sunk self tappers at the rear. Look under right at the sides and you should see two holes and an imprint/something that shows where the backets fitted. They are quite wide, 4"(?) one each side, the height of the cupboard side towards the front of the cupboard. Agreed, but 99 out of 100 aftermarket / self built interiors are 3/4 beds with cupboards down one side.
So following on from Zeds last comment, this bed was a full width. It's the boards that determine the width. Starting with latch mechanism. This holds the seat board to the fascia panel whilst travelling. This is the later Westy latch.
What's happened there is the 2 pins have been hooked like this.. You then push the base slightly further backwards and the pins disengage from the hooks Allowing the front board to drop down level to make the bed
When it's flat, you'll have slight projection of the open hinges at each side. This isn't an issue See how that hinge isn't supported on the wheel arch. That's because it's now a custom width and so long as it's bolted in tight that will not be an issue...
Mine's different. From seat you lift the seat slightly, it unlatches and you pull it out to bed. To go back to seat lift the front section until you hear both latches have clicked then push down / backwards. No locking latch on the front panel for mime, must be a later thing.
So, mock it all up first. Clamp it and build it in situ before you start chopping and drilling. It's time consuming but worth it. The plates are listed on NLA VW if you search on Westfalia Rock and roll bed. They do a few bits including some hardware, foams and covers. I have no idea what the quality is like
It is later. I hybridised the bed from the Conty bits I bought and the og Campmobile US bits. The bed base doesn't have to be lifted to fully latch as you say. I was just illustrating the mechanism. We usually just lift it slightly and pull it forward. The upright latch function is for easier access under the seat...not for sitting and facing backwards, that will break it as you know Steve
Lots of very helpful information there so thank you. Are you able to measure the thickness and dimensions of the plywood for the seat base and back by any chance. Maybe even the thickness of the floor plywood. I need to have another look later but I thought the bed front panel was completely in line with the bed base floor wood leaving no gap to tuck in the plywood on the rest of the floor. The first thing I need to do is get the hinges straightened a bit and sorted. A month ago I had to pack up my workshop and put into storage so I have limited tools and facilities and have to find people who can help. The other thing I am curious about is the heater vents that are going to be under the bed. I am not sure if these were like this from factory or if someone opened them up. I also see some photos with a metal piece to spread the hot air as it comes out, but missing on mine. I am wondering how this is supposed to work with the bed base wood right there.
I'm not sure measuring my boards and floor will help you. The floor is 9mm ply which tucks just under the fascia BUT all our build is custom and I measured and remeasured etc etc. I'm away from the bus for a while but as a guess the base boards would have been 22mm to get a reasonably level transition from the supporting bends in the top of the hinge where it bolts to the rear cargo floor.
