Voltage regulator bypass

It’s died

 

What symptoms are the patient exhibiting?

 

I have a type1 ,will be doing on my drive & tight for space as drive is small,also I want to fit a leisure battery,would you recommend sending it to an auto electrician ?

 

Battery won’t charge ,had a full charge,also tried it with a new battery,drove for about a hour headlights dying rapidly made to camp ground bus wouldn’t start,battery dead got. JUMP start drove for about 20 Mins bus konked out,got a new battery same thing happened but ran a lot longer this time
When I charged batteries at home both charged well & held their charge excuse the grammar

 

What’s yhe voltage on the battery with the engine running? Tried changing the regulator? No need to pull the alt if it’s mot necessary.

 

I’ll try it in the morning & let you know thanks

 

Mate could you tell me what this is please

 

Diagnostic socket for long defunct VW "computer". nothing to do with the problem at hand except you can measure voltages at various places round the bus through it.

 

Thanks ,so it’s not needed then?

 

No, you can ignore it.

 

I really am a novice aren’t I
At work I wire up all my own controls ,to heat pumps ,commercial gas boilers , solar systems but when it comes to the bus I panic,I’ve just bought the Bentley service manual & I’m gonna get stuck in ,so no doubt I’ll have plenty more stupid questions

 

Just get stuck in

 

Will do

 

It' not too bad to do with engine in place, just remove the dizzy, fuel pump(don't drop the push rod into the engine block), carb and air filter, slacker the bolts either side of the fan housing and the thermostat bellow bolt underneath to allow the fan housing to raise enough to clear the manifold with the alternator, you will also need to remove the alternator pedestal which is a bit awkward

 

Mine is all back in place but the bugger won't start, when I tried to start it the dizzy started smoking, turned out the lead from the points to the condenser had started to melt! Any ideas what would cause this?

 

You’ve got the green wire to the points on the wrong side (+12V) of the coil. May have damaged the earth braid inside the dissy - worth checking.

 

It' on the same side as it was before!

 

On the “-ve” “1” side of the coil? Opposite side to the +12V supply?

 

I believe so... I just put it back where it came from, could it run on the wrong side or Not?

 

The engine will run (although not very well) if the +12 and CB connections are reversed (ie coil connected "backwards"), but if the CB lead is on the same connector as the +12 supply, you'll get the symptoms you describe. The contact breakers close, and it puts a dead short across the 12V supply.