Type 4 trainer / oil pick up stud sheared..

Sounds more like panic application of sealer - can't you knock it out from the inside? The fix is to tap that hole but I doubt it's been done hence the sealer.

 

Just gave quite a good tap with a drift through from the inside... It wasn't keen on moving... but will wait for morning to save upsetting neighbours with any more hammering...my bet with the way things are going is a big lump of case will pop off...

 

Maybe it has been tapped then.

 

No room to get anything onto bolt head to tighten/ undo .. Only a couple of mm to case! Might drill into top and tru a stud extractor tomorrow..

 

I need to remind myself, I'll have a look at a case I have tomorrow.

 

You should be able to get a socket on that? I've split T4 cases with a socket set though my 13mm is shaved thin with a grinder - can't remember why, maybe that's it!

 

That case can be saved. You do not have to drill all the way through. I have done many without removing the engine, simple. As for the cam it is usable as long as you reface the tappets with a radius, it will last a very long time and is much better than a lot of aftermarket junk. As for welding, no one seems to consider the distortion of the centre cam saddle caused by the heat and what to do to correct it. Zed is correct in that there are different case types, you have Alloy, Alloy mag and there are some early ones that are pure Mag.

 

Ok here are the photos, I guess you could use the hlf of this case and half of yours and get it align bored ? Or nick the bit off yours and weld on this its a tiny bit missing off the bit in last picture. The half with the broken bit is not the hlf you need if you get my drift, The half with the broken bit has a helicoil in the drain plug. (see pic 7) This could be fixed permanently as its apart, was fixed while together.

Anyway up to you, see what @zed or @Robert Parry reckon, makes no odds to me

 

Ta ...that's a great ... nice to have options..

 

So 5 mins with a grinder. . New thin wall 17mm socket!



Bolt out!


...
Think I've gone past a sump stud issue.. anyone want a new CJ 2.0l teardown thread?

 

While in theory you could, I doubt that the case halves would match exact enough for it to be an option...

At factory the engine halves are paired, and numbered as pairs, they are bolted together, and then the cam and crank bores are machined...

 

That is a simple repair, and would be the best option that there is at this time.

 

Cheers guys but think I might have a CJ longblock so should have few extra spares too all being well..