Got these a few months back from flea bay and I’m gearing up (or not) to change my miserable, tinless ones. I dream of heat these days.. But the guy at heritage sent me some gaskets which are just copper rings, for the case to HX, and don’t look at all like the flat faces shown here. My type 2 2L bay engine is from 1973, Ive not taken one off to look at what’s there but now I’m worrying if I have the right ones....wouldn’t want the hassle of destroying the studs etc only to find they all wrong. Any advice ye olde sages of bayness? will these ones go on?
Booom! I thought they would go on mine...ahhh bloxxxx.. with a bit of builders adhesive and 2x4 could they be made to fit??.
With an angle grinder, some 5mm sheet steel, a welder, pillar drill, die grinder... Anything can be made to fit. Or even better still a donor set of correct but knackered heat exchangers that fit to provide the flanges and pipes .... To the tune of "Record Breakers" ... oooh fabrication, thats the name of the game!
Check your engine and heads first .. our 73 2 ltr has a CU engine and later heads that take the square port exchangers like you have.. Get a pic of where you existing one joins the head it's easy to tell if you have oval port heads... and if so a set of exchangers to sell..
but does it have all the CU cooling, tinware etc ? Unlikely the main engine is almost the same but most of the ancillary components are different to late bay
I got a used set off a California bus the back box is different being a 3 bolt triangle as apposed to the U.K. double port . Needed a new bracket to fix the back box, the square ports on the head I had new 6mm flanges laser cut cost me a tenner. I would definitely go for Vw ones as the reproduction ones are sh## and won’t last a U.K. winter unless painted, plus the heat is non existent, go either NOS or good second hand, they go at the shows when on for 40 .
.as you were see the t25 difference to the square port latebay now.. heat riser and connection to front fan different...
T25 ones on a bay. you might get lucky and your heads are sq port, but most are not. They push the silencer too far back. The inlets for the heating air are completely different shape size and location. That's why you can often see a bargain pair on ebay with nobody bidding.
you have to swap all the parts including the heat exchangers they may well bolt to the head but that is only one of the components to make the heater work, all the air flow system has to marry up, t25 is nothing like late bay
OK....getting cheap HX ers and the promise of some heat has kept me going for a few months ...so it was all worth it, especially as I haven’t had to strip anything to find out. The price of new ones ...with the ‘no heat possible fins’ is crazy...so I guess I’ll have to keep looking, it’s not easy driving the bay all year round, at this time of year. At least you get to watch the rust develop like a time lapse film...rather than return in spring and see huge new patches. Anybody want well refurbed new T25 ones I’m your man. ,
We have the reproduction ones on Gusbus; although the heat from them isn't as good as original, they work fine for us. We have the long centre tube and heater pipework well insulated which helps in winter and Ive been fine going to Dubfreeze etc
It’s only the heat I want. I’d be ducting it straight into the rear of the bus, to reduce friction and conductive losses in the silly pipe work all the way to the front, air cooled under the bus at ambient plus wind chilled temperatures. Right now the tin is completely off one and the other is nearly naked. This seems to help with cooling, but I need some sheepskin Ugg’s
A diesel heater is cheaper than HX'ers...if you want to be toasty.... Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
