Ive heard, from reliable sources, that its been commented on that our Bazza has impeccable timing So the Ladies say!
I still haven't done the timing( I know lazy so and so) but I changed the coil and something has improved, the van has always struggled to start I takes an age before it finally gets going I thought it was because I'm running 34icts which as you know don't have a choke so I put it down to that anyway as I said I put the new coil on pumped the gas and it fired first go, just a coincidence? @zedders @mikedjames @Baysearcher
I guess you'll find out when you take it for a proper warm up which is where you said it was misbehaving, but it's a good sign.
Just went out and it started first time I'll take it for a spin to Sainsbury's tomorrow I hope it runs better, I'm crossing everything
@zedders you was correct it wasn't the timing it was the coil all along, it runs better than it's done in years I took it for a run this morning to get some essential shopping and it didn't back fire once, it drove really really well no fumes smell and it's not getting hot, what I don't understand is how a dodgy coil can cause so many problems especially overheating, but I'm very pleased with how it's running now and so will my neighbours
Poor combustion causes less power per petroleum unit so I guess the lost power is wasted as heat. I don't really know - it just does.
So finally got round to doing the timing, it was well out it was showing 18 BTDC at 3000 I've adjusted it to 28BTDC and it's now 7.5 at tick over Thanks everyone
I've still got a bit of popping when I change down but at least I know the timing is correct, I'll check for air leaks tomorrow any tips?
18 BTC at 3,000 would have been a dog and if it ticked over right at the corresponding 2.5ATD and you set it to 7.5BTC it would have revved the nuts. You sure you set it right now? You said it was driving lovely with it's new coil, altering the timing 10 whole degrees would have fooked it right up.
Definitely did it right just took it out and it's running lovely, I took it for a long run to warm it up, got home and put the timing light on it it was showing 0 TDC on the scale at tick over revved it up to max and the most it would go was 18 btdc, I undid the 13 mm bolt on the dizzy revved it to max then adjusted to 28btdc when I checked the idle it was now showing 7.5
Popping can just be the effect of shutting the throttle with non stock carburettors and maybe a small exhaust leak. Or cracking open the throttle endstops a tiny bit so they dont shut completely may stop popping. The thing that annoyed me about the popping on mine was that it was feeble and tinny like stuff rattling in the exhaust rather than proper crackling .... If its going to do it, make it properly annoying . Turned out to be mostly a cracked weld in a silencer box caused by hitting things with it.. kerbs, sleeping policemen, Halfords maintenance ramps etc. By crack I mean a full 360 degrees round the pipe , the silencer box was waving around a bit.
I've noticed the seal between the header and the tail box looks a bit black if air was getting in there would it cause popping?
Yes. None of my vans have ever popped on deceleration unless there's a hole in the exhaust somewhere and where your leak is is perfect for a pop, it's NOT normal in good tune and (sorry Mike) it's NOT due to non-stock carbs.
Next job will be the carbs which are Weber 34icts I think I'm running a bit rich as I have black soot in the exhaust and they do smell a bit rich Is this correct Start bus and get to running temperature, disconnect throttle linkage on one carb, turn in mixture screw until engine is just about to stall then back off, do the same with the other carb, put the airflow meter on each carb to make sure they are equal, adjust throttle screw reconnect linkage
Yes. But that won't effect anything apart from the tickover smoothness. Bite the bullet, take the top off one and see what jets you have - you know you want to. Check the float heights. Check the emulsion type - F7/8 which they are ALWAYS supplied with are the worst possible choice and MUST be changed for F3 if you can get them or F6 otherwise. Check the fuel pressure. All these things effect your running (driving) mixture but setting the idle mix does not. When that lot is right, put carb back, set idle mix and balance again, then check the carbs both start to open and exactly the same time. Every time you do anything to timing or carbs reset that idle mix. Some of the chaps on here know how to jet ICTs better than I do. They seem to want bigger mains than the venturi would suggest.
