The classic fuel hose leak - advice requested

I did think about this, especially with the solid connector pipe in the picture below... I actually wondered if the PO had removed the filter here and not replaced it... Ill have to find a suitable place to rig it up pre-pump. Definite recommend not to have it in the engine bay?

 

definitely need to get the new fuel hose clips...

Think ill order this fuel bundle kit from https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/hoser5kites/ and get everything squared away. Thanks for the tips guys will report back if i make the target only a 'thimble full' lost!

 

So the £75 per hour, famous, London VW Campervan specialists (named after a guy who climbed a beanstalk) shouldn’t have done this for me...


There are a few Jubilee clips along the line.
What are the clips behind? They look really good and I can’t figure out how they were fitted.

Also, I was hoping, the next time I change the hose, to have the fuel line attached to the ceiling that runs behind the fan housing, so that I can see it better. Any reason to not do that?

At least they moved the plastic fuel filter to outside the engine bay


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3m seems alot of hose.

Do your measuring, you might manage with 2m.

Think I needed just under 2m to replace everything in my type 1 engine.

 

You might not want to run fuel line high up.
From the tank to the pump, you might get air locks if you run the hose up then down, and then totally run out of fuel.

If you run it after the pump you are making a potentially inconvenient petrol shower for your engine bay where normally you would be fitting a Blazecut extinguisher.

Usually the hose run would be mostly level to the fuel pump then rising after the pump to the carburettors.
Basically with a full tank of fuel the fuel line will prime with gravity pushing petrol to the pump.

I managed with exactly 2 metres of my expensive stainless braided Goodridge 200 fuel line on a Type 1. Tank to large metal bodied filter on chassis rail, then to solenoid shutoff valve on chassis rail. To short hard line through firewall, round to pump, up to carburettor.


I set fire to my bus with a fuel pumps worth of petrol and no more because I had a fuel shutoff solenoid valve. So an 800g powder extinguisher put it out. After a rewire and replacement of a few burnt bits the bus was back on the road the next afternoon.
Seeing what happened to rubber fuel line, I went for the motorsport fire retardant stainless braided ...

 

Great. Thanks. I figured there would be a reason to not, otherwise others would have done it already
Does your Goodridge 200 fuel line justify the investment?


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It hasnt caught fire since, and I havent inspected it too closely...
I cannot find a life expectancy for the hose .. but as the inner is nitrile, which is proof against all fuels I am likely to put in the bus, sleeved in some fabric, which I assume is fire retardant and keeps UV light off the nitrile, then a tight stainless braid, it ought to last.

The nice hose clamps in one of those pictures up in the thread are on eBay as double ear crimp o clips.

 

Jubilee clips are ok but fuel hose clips are better. There should be a couple of clips above the gearbox for hose.

 

So R9 Codan is bad for our buses? I bought this a a few years back (bus has been stood half the time it's been on):

http://www.volksbolts.com/FuelHose/index.htm

Should I be worried? Gunna check it for stiffness and cracking later this morning.

 

If you havent run the bus much and so the fuel lines havent seen much heat they are much more likely to be in reasonable condition. The original hose under my fuel tank lasted a very long time, replacement rubber hose in the engine bay lasted less time.


One thing to be aware of is people go on about fuel hoses rated to 120C .. but thats with diesel in it. With petrol in it, there are hotspots around the engine bay where you will reach 80 or 90C when you stop after a long run and even the Gates hose is at its limit and may eventually begin to surface crack. But the way the Gates hoses are made means that the inside remains protected by the reinforcement built into the hose, and the mutiple layers that make up the hose help.

Same with the Cohline and Goodridge ..

Modern cars dont run fuel lines near hot engine components, the routing is run wide of exhausts, we run fuel hoses above exhaust heat risers or past exhaust pipes coming through the firewall, and have cylinder heads warming up to 150C sitting just under the tinware.

 

Ok thanks for the swift response. I'm going to get in and around all the lines today to at least perform a visual.

As I'm fitting ICTs I may end up replacing the lot but we shall see. I'm sure I have some R9 Codan left over from the first time out so may replace from tank to pump at the very least for some peace of mind for the next crucial 4 weeks.

Just when I thought I had fuel hose nailed it turns out it's still a minefield

 

I did a tank to carb replacement on all my lines a few weeks back. I also fitted a pressure regulator which is a good move for new carbs to stop them over fueling.

Definitely recommend taking the van for a fuel burner run before so the tank is near empty then when you jack it up from the offside the remaining petrol will be on the other side of the tank and you can change the hose and clips with no petrol coming out.

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I've bought a Malpasi Petrol King to regulate the fuel to these ICTs. I may have to replace the petrol pump yet as its dripping. Just need to work out if its fuel or oil.

So now I'm going to get the entire back end up on ramps which will hopefully help the fuel in the tank being pushed to one end. Maybe just the rear right. I'll soon find out. Just trying to locate my left over Codan fuel lines. This job has quickly grown...

 

I got the Filter King version. Nice thing is you can build the whole set up from carbs back to the regulator as one job then work from regulator back to tank as a secondary job to give you that 'mini win' feeling

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I'm a saddo...
Plastic filter after tank outlet.
Large metal filter that came with...
3.5psi CB rotary pump
Then a whacking great filter regulator.
There's barely any muck even in the first filter after 5 years and never any in the filter/regulator or carbs.

 

Agree. You don't lose to much if you plan ahead

 

Check the rubber on the breather pipes that run up to the vents on the rear. You can't see them but they are there. It's a matter of feeling for them. I missed it and it failed when I filled the tank to the top. It run everywhere

 

I did all the breathers when I had the engine out last year and did all the fuel lines a couple of weeks ago. They were fine when I purchased it, but had started to crack. Injected engine so lucky enough to have all the measurements on ratwell. I got 100% bio hose from advanced fluid, but will keep an eye on it regularly. Changed the fuel filter and injector seals too at the same time. Actually pretty easy but time consuming with all the connections for FI.


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The clips behind are called o clips some people call them ear clips you feed them onto the pipe and the with a special pair of pliers you squeeze the sides to tighten the clip.
They are quite good but they are a one time use, you have to cut them off to remove them. Stick with the correct hose clips not jubilee on small hose.

 

What the problem exactly?