The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Curil smells quite funky as well

 

I did rear brake pads on daughters boyfriend’s Vivaro this afternoon, in all my years spannering I’ve never even seen a 21mm socket let alone need one!
Luckily it’s the same as a 13/16th and I had one of them

 

Don't ask ...

The 'new wheel bearing' job sort of grew legs



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basking in the sun

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They will work better with pads fitted

 

Today's circuit.. from pouring rain on the M4 to wading massive puddles in the Mendips.. Bristol, Stourhead and home in the bus.

 

Fitted 123 Ignition dizzy
Refitted carbs after replacing spindle bushes

 

Did your man re jet the carbs when he fitted them?

 

I wouldn't panic just yet. There's a degree of fiddling necessary when you slap the Dells on (but don't become obsessed). I would just drive it for while until everything settles down, then tackle any issues. My engine popped and banged on the overrun, but then it...went away.

It is worth checking your new fuel lines/hoses for any leaks.

 

It does make quite a difference to have engine really hot when you set your carbs up. something your man possibly did not do, but I'd just do the rounds checking your carbs to manifolds to head fixings are all still tight. It shouldn't idle leaner hot, the opposite.

 

Did Alex give you a list of stuff fitted to your Dells btw? Jet sizes, emulsion tubes, venturis, etc.

Will be useful for future reference.

 

The popping and banging may just be a sign that the carburettors are producing a lean mixture on the overrun, and your exhaust may or may not have a pin hole ...

My progressive can be persuaded to crackle and pop on engine braking. The AFR meter whacks over to 20:1 , or almost pure air. Just a sign that if the engine sucks really hard with a closed throttle, the idle circuit doesnt manage to provide enough fuel for an engine doing 2000 rpm or whatever. But if I were to stop it crackling and popping then it would end up too rich.

There may not be a lot wrong ..

 

While changing brake discs and brake hoses .. I managed to perform a £120 thread strip - I wound a new brake hose union nut into a front caliper slightly off true and it took out the thread in the caliper.. or maybe there was some corrosion in the caliper that started off the process when I was having to heave quite hard to undo the old brake pipe. The casting was stripped into the threads of the nut. It really didnt offer much resistance when I was winding the new nut back in

The rear of the brake discs had worn unevenly. but symmetrically on both sides, only about 75% of the surface was working, the remainder was rust that was chewing away at the pads faster than they wore away the rust, so there was a step in the pad. It looks like the discs were pretty close to the wear limit anyway. I think I replaced them last back in 2010, or 2011, about 95000 miles back.


Discovered the fourth suspension ball joint that I didnt replace a few years back was a bit worn, and the boot had split too. So I started trying to remove that , found the camber nut stuck onto the ball joint, trying to press out the ball joint, with an Ebay ball joint kit (which bends rather than moving things .. .) and a Bay Window adaptor. Hasnt moved yet, leaving it soaked in Plus Gas , will find a blowtorch and give it some heat tomorrow. If not its angle grinder and hacksaw time, at least its only one this time.

I have ordered a new camber nut and a brake caliper and some ball joint boots, I already have one new ball joint with a boot from the four I ordered before. . . .

 

Corollary then is that popping on throttle òff while free wheeling indicates leaning somewhere in the induction system. So on full throttle popping down a motorway would probably be equivalent. Make sure that your air correction adjustments are right because at some stage it will all end in tears!